Wainwrights without a car - Jagged Lakes, 31 White Ox Way, Penrith (2026)

24/07/2026

Caudale Moor, Thornthwaite Crag, Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke - 23/07/2026

The foundation of part of the road over Kirkstone Pass had collapse in 2025 and the road over to Windermere had been close. Westmorland & Furness Council had pulled the stops out to repair this with major work to create a new foundation and the replacement of the road. They managed to get it opened by the first weekend of the school holiday. This meant that the 508 bus, which had been running from Penrith to Patterdale was able to go the full distance to Windermere.
I therefore thought this was good opportunity to take the bus to the top of Kirkstone Pass and head off eastwards over Caudale Moor to Thornthwaite Crag and along the ridge over Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke.
I caught the 9.05 bus at Sandgate and met some ladies, who were going for a walk around Brotherwater, and another lady, who was cat sitting for a friend of mine and going for a trip on the steamer. At Kirkstone Pass I was able to see much activity at the “Inn” with folk getting ready for the day - under its new ownership - good to see it open again and no doubt I will frequent to bar sometime. On upwards up the fell a chap caught me up and we chatted and I gave him one of my “Wainwright without a car” business cards. He said that we had met on top of Helvellyn a couple of years ago, when I had given him a card then. He said he was going to Red Screes and I thought - This is not the way to Red Screes - however said he was going over Caudale Moor and Hartsop Dodd and down to Hartsop then up the other side of the valley to Red Screes - I duly let him go on as (a) he was fitter than me and (b) he had further to go.
It was interested seeing the work done by the Fix the Fells teams on Raven Edge going up onto Caudale Moor - Chris and me were involved with some of the work here, in September 2024, organised by Steve Charles through the FRCC/BMC - such a change.
The view opened up as height was gained on Caudale Moor. Unfortunately, one has to drop a long way down to Threshwaite Col before the ascent to Thornthwaite Crag. Just above the Col I met a couple with their nine-year-old daughter and had a chat with them. The daughter was near a boggy area and she came over with her hands clasped and reviewed a frog she had found - she duly returned it to the boggy area where it hopped off.
Onward up Thornthwaite Crag to its fine summit cairn then “downhill” from here - well not quite with the ups and downs of Froswick and Ill Bell. On Froswick I me a chap with his two sons who were making their way up and over High Street and looking to camp near Angletarn Crag - what a great time to be out camping.
Onward down - it seemed a long way. I had thoughts on Troutbeck Tongue or Sour Howes & Sallows but will leave those for another day. There is a path which drops down to Limefitt Campsite - with the bracken level this was rather indistinct but eventually I arrived at the valley path. I was pondering about what refreshment facilities there would be at Limefitt and I was pleased to see the Haybarn Inn and soon drank a pint followed by another as well as crisps and chip.
Suitable replenished I went and caught the 17.20 bus back over Kirkstone Pass, getting a quick glimpse of the renovation work on the road and the newly opened Kirkstone Inn.

08/07/2026

The book "Wainswrights without a Car" was shortlisted for the Lakeland Book of the Year Awards - Guides & Place section.
The awards were last night at the George Hotel in Penrith - the Guides & Places section was won by the book King Charles III - Coast Path North West by Ange Harker published by Cicerone Book. I was a bit disappointed but chuffed to have been shortlisted.
The overall Lakeland Book of the Year was Helm by Sarah Hall.

03/07/2026

If you are in the Wasdale area this year at weekends or bank holiday check out details of the Wasdale Explorer bus service -

22/06/2026

Eskdale, Slight Side and Scafell

19 – 21 June 2026

There seemed to be a weather window and Chris booked a train journey to Ravensglass and I held back to consider doing the Watershed Walk, from Silecroft northwards. In the end I joined Chris on the journey, via Lancaster, to Ravenglass, going along new sections of railway, to me, along the south of the county passing through Grange, Ulverston and Barrow. An American chap got on at Barrow and had just flown from Thailand to Manchester and was heading to Seascale - he had never been to England before and was a keen golfer and looking to a three-week trip in England and Scotland savouring the golf courses.
Leaving the “big trains” we had lunch next to the “la-al trains” then set off along the Eskdale Trail and up into the Eskdale Valley. This is a well signed route eventually, we think, going to Dalegarth Station. Skirting by Muncaster Castle and Muncaster Fell we went by the Eskdale Golf Course. This was a 9 Course and now an 18 Course. Just afterwards a friend phoned about something else and he is a keen golfer and commented that Eskdale Golf Course is known as the Augusta of Cumbria golf courses !! Hope that got through to our American friend we saw earlier !
It started to rain but we were sheltered in part by the trees along the trail, which works its way up the valley. We were staying at the Youth Hostel and after some welcome refreshment at the Woolpack Inn we are arrived at the Hostel, just after its opening time at 5.00pm.
There was an interesting mix of folk staying there with two ladies looking to run in the Park Run at Haverigg Prison, tomorrow; a group of guys in the British Army, from Nepal, who had just been around the North Coast 500 on motorbikes and two other guys who had hired a Morgan car, from the works in Malvern, and were enjoying themselves - though they do not recommend taking a Morgan over Hard Knott Pass, due to the pot holes.
We had various options for the Saturday and decided to go over Slight Side and Scafell, then down to Wasdale and stay at the FRCC hut at Brackenclose. The path up Slight Side gradually gains height and also the view gets better and better till eventually looking into the Upper Eskdale valley and the very busy summit of Scafell Pike as well as others summits.
A must for all who climb Scafell is to go up the summit of Symonds Knott - this overlooks Deep Ghyll and gives a fine view north to Great Gable and Borrowdal, It is also a 3000-footer but is off the radar of most who go by that way.
Downwards from here we heard the call of a ring ousel. The path is quite pleasant, though a little steep in places and is used by BG runners as a descent off Scafell.
Eventually we gained the hut and we were pleased to seen Humphrey there preparing a communal meal for his Clitheroe Club mates - to which we were invited (that sorted the evening meal out) - thanks Humph. I got some refreshments (liquid and ice lollies) at the NT campsite shop.
Sunday was a real scorcher but I felt I had had enough and also looking to return to Tophet Wall on Wednesday. Chris went back over Styhead Pass and I caught the Wasdale Explorer bus, at 9.05, which went all the way to Ravenglass. This has been a welcome change to the timetable from last year, when the bus just started at the beginning of the day at Ravenglass and finished there in the evening.
A little further along the road we picked up two ladies, who had been up Scafell Pike, from Borrowdale, but had come down to Wasdale by mistake, and were making their way back (and not paying for the £150 taxi) to Borrowdale. They got the train from Ravenglass to Corkickle, in Whitehaven, and were met by friends there. They were raising money for a charity “No Cold for the Old” and based in Stoke on Trent and so far had raised £9000.
I go the train from Ravenglass, with the bus from Corkickle to Whitehaven station due to the tunnel repairs there then back to Penrith, via Carlisle.
Great circular tour of the Lakes !

14/06/2026

EVMC June Walk 13/06/2026

Angletarn Pikes and Brock Crag

We were looking at the idea of a walk over Helvellyn, catching the bus to Glenridding and walking over to Dunmail, then catching the bus back again, via Keswick, however with high winds forecast we decided to keep lower down. Stuart, Chris and myself caught the 9.05am 508 bus from Penrith and met Robin at the bus stop at Glenridding. We decided to go up Angletarn Pikes and Brock Crag and helped, in a little way, by the north westerly wind. We made our way along by the road, to Patterdale, over the bridge and onto the well-worn path up to Boredale Hause. Not surprisingly we were not alone !
The new AW Coast to Coast signs showed the way and we gradually gained height, with the view improving, to eventually reach the Hause. The wind was not that bad as we stopped for a bite to eat near the Hause. Onward the path eventually led to the north summit which at 666m is marginally higher than the nearby south summit at 665m. There is the lovely view of Angle Tarn from the south summit then we headed down and around the west side of the tarn passing a flock of geese and also two people swimming (and it was swimming and not quick in and out). Onward to Brock Crag and this summit which AW had included in his guide, with its fine views towards High Street, Hayeswater and beyond Hartsop.
We then dropped down eastwards to the col and took the path towards Hartsop which did a huge zig-zag, passing the old pumping station (with caravans inside ??), to the village. The car park was rammed with cars and we met a couple of ladies who had set off running from Pooley Bridge and having a long day out training for a forthcoming 100km ultra run.
We followed the road, then track, which took us along the base of the fell, passing through the delightful area around Crookback. Then over the bridge into Patterdale. With the bus due in about an hour some refreshments were called for at the White Lion Inn before going along to the bus stop. There were three other people near the seat who were walking the Coast to Coast and staying nearby. One was a lady from Birmingham and the other two chaps were from Copenhagen having flown to Manchester and train to St Bees.
The bus arrived and we embarked and enjoyed the ride back to Penrith after a good day out.

30/05/2026

Ullock Pike, Longside, Carlside, Skiddaw and Skiddaw Little Man
11/10/2025

The EVMC walking meet was lined up for today. We decided on taking the bus and climbing Skiddaw by the Ullock Pike - Carlside ridge. There were just the three of us and set off in rather dull conditions. The bus driver on the X4 bus also said that he could not go along the east side of Bassenthwaite as road issues there (looks like beyond Castle Inn) so we made various alternative plans. We disembarked at Keswick and in due course the 554 bus (Carlisle via Wigton) appeared and we took that to the Ravenstone Hotel. We then headed upwards via Watches and into mist on Ullock Pike. Onward over Long Side to Carl Side the mist seemed to be disappearing and as we ascended Skiddaw the blue sky appeared with a fine view over the clouds to Bowfell, Scafells, Great Gable and Pillar. On the main ridge views to the east opened out and south to Helvellyn - what a day,. It was also a very busy day on the summit.
Down by Little Skiddaw Man and on by Jenkins Hill and Latrigg took us back to Keswick after a magical day !

30/05/2026

Aviemore - Glenmore – Airgiod-meall

16th May 2026

We were staying in Aviemore, with Gill and Hamish, and decided to use the Aviemore Adventurer bus to go up to Glenmore and have a walk from there with the little summit of Airgiod meal in our sights.
The bus leaves from outside the railway station and is a popular way of accessing the mountains. From Glenmore there is a path which goes beside the river Allt Mor, which drains out of Coire an Lochain and Coire ant-Sneachta. Going near the road but the sound of the cars is lost in the woods. After crossing the road, one eventually comes to Utsi’s Bridge. Utsi lived in the area from the 1950s and, with his wife, introduced reindeer into the area and started the reindeer centre, which is still in existence now. We followed the path over the bridge and up by the reindeer centre with sight of some of the reindeer nearby. This path is often followed to go to the Chalamain Gap and into the Lairig Ghru. We however headed for Lochan Dubh a’Chadha, a delightful lochan, with also the fine backdrop of the Cairngorms with a coating of snow. We could look into the Coires and saw someone skiing down into Coire an Lochain from the right.
After an ascent of Airgiod-meall we dropped down and met some friends of Gill. One of them works at the Reindeer Centre and we looked across at the reindeer, including a lot of young, and got some underlying information on the centre and the reindeer.
Just as we dropped down into the forest, we could hear a cuckoo calling and then could see it sat on top of a tree - suddenly it flew off and joined, presumably its mate, and they flew off together. Seeing one cuckoo is quite something but seeing two, at the same time, is very special !
Further down we stopped at Utsi’s Hut which was built and used by Utsi during the summer. On down through the forest, we eventually came to Loch Morlich where we could see the presence of beavers with various trees having been gnawed through. The area near the road was busy and after enjoying an ice cream we got the bus back into Aviemore.

30/04/2026

Slow run up Brunt Knott near Staveley. What a great summit - never been up before but well worth another ascent - and it is a Birkett !

Panorama attached - sorry about sound quality.

29/04/2026

Great Knoutberry Hill - 28.04.2026

This is not in the Lake District but very accessible from the Settle - Carlisle Railway Line.

I am reading a book by Stan Abbott, entitled Walking the Line, which follows the Settle - Carlisle Railway Line - it is an interesting read which goes off in various directions and detail. It was interesting around the section at Dent Station and this once very isolated area (and still is) being transformed when the railway was built along the top of the dale. The station there should perhaps be called Dentdale or Top of Dentdale as it is quite a distance, perhaps 8km, but more importantly some 200m higher than Dent.
Above the station is Great Knoutberry Hill (GKH) which looked worth checking out - it is not one of the “Big Three” but it has a commanding position at the top of Dentdale, with the Sedbergh hill and Lake District to the West; Mallerstang with Wild Boar Fell and Great Shunner Fell to the North; Wensleydale and Widdale (how is it pronounced - I like that name !) to the East and the Three Peaks and Pendle to the South.
We found a route plan on the internet and caught the 8.45 train from Lazonby station and enjoyed the journey down. We disembarked at Dent Station which, at 1150 feet, is the highest railway station in England and had somewhat chilly air with a north easterly wind. We set up the rather notorious Coal Road - this is quite a challenge, as we saw later, for cyclist (and walkers) with a 300m steep and continuous climb from the valley before dropping down to Garsdale Station. It takes its name from being the route taken to bring coal down from the coal colliery on the south side of GKH. This was rather inferior coal but did the job for the isolated local community up to when the railway was built, after which better quality coal could be brought in - one of the effects of the new railway,
We followed the track (Pennine Bridleway) along the side of GKH to a gate and a fence, which headed up the hillside, and followed the fence to eventually topping out. Not the best day for a view but stunning panorama along around !
On the down by a wall then down by Arten Gill with the impressive Arten Gill Viaduct in the distance - 117 feet high and 220 yards long - one of the many amazing structures of the railway.
We were soon in the isolated hamlet of Stonehouse and following the road with the sound of the newly born lambs as well as birds including curlew and a pair of oyster catchers. We passed the Sportman’s Inn which, unsurprisingly, was closed at midday and midweek but has regular hours of opening. The river was quite low and we were able to enjoy a bite to eat in the middle of the riverbed, whilst the river flowed at a lower level.
At Lea Yeat, we crossed another bridge over the river - the cottage adjoining the bridge was built in 1702 as a Quaker Meeting House. We then took the road on the right “upwards” - this is the start of the Coal Road and we made our way up, which must be in the 1 in 4/5 range in places. We were past by a young lad, with an Oxford University shirt on, who had the energy not just to keep pedalling but also give a howdo !
We eventually reached the station and met a chap from Sedbergh who was meeting his son and grandchildren, who lived in Skipton, on the next train. We could see the train in the distance and it soon arrived at 14.43 and we embarked for the journey back to Lazonby after a very pleasant and interesting walk.

26/04/2026

Lorton Gully on Grasmoor - 26/04/2026

The south face of Grasmoor is a spectacular location split by two gullies - Lorton Gully and Buttermere Gully - both providing an interesting way up Grasmoor - Lorton Gully is in Steve Goodwin’s book Lake District Climbs and Scrambles.

The EVMC has a scramble each month and suggested Lorton Gully to access Grasmoor as it is possible to reach the base of the climb by bus and the idea was hatched to travel there by bus, climb the route, tick off the summit of Grasmoor (without a car) and also Lad’s How (a Birkett). In the end Ian pedalled in from Lazonby and he and myself went for the 8.45 bus at Penrith to Keswick and catch the 9.40 77 bus to Buttermere and arrive at Lanthwaite Green at 10.14 - whilst Pippa and Cal made their ways from different directions by car.
Unfortunately the 8.45am bus did not appear and on the 9.15 we saw it, conked out, by the road near Motherby. The delay caused us to miss the 9.40 77 bus so we thought we would continue on the same bus to Cockermouth and catch the 11.00 77c bus to Buttermere - unfortunately the 11.00 bus did not appear either and eventually we got a taxi, together with two lassies (who were going to Buttermere) to take us to Lanthwaite Green. Ian commented that it had taken him four hours to get from home to Lanthwaite Green - a similar time it could have taken to get to Fort William - but we would not have had the delight of the bus journey and meeting the two lassies.
Pippa and Cal were there waiting patiently and we set off Lorton Gully bound - initially up a grassy ridge then out rightwards and up to the gully. We set off up the gully which had some interesting rocky sections and a rope was called for in places. Above a holly bush we entered the “Dark Slit” with three sections - the first section was OK - the second required a rope and a bit of umph - whilst the third section, though likely as dry as is possible, defeated the team. An alternative route was made to the left then back into the gully higher up. The gully divides here and we went up the left branch on some delightful rock which led, up leftwards, to a rocky ridge which led up to the path and ridge of the normal path.
The top of Grasmoor was reach about 6 hours since we left the car !!! We descended by the ridge which goes over Lad’s How (a Birkett) and then back along to the car after a somewhat long and eventful day. We thought that the last bus would have gone (should have checked the timetable) but the 77A suddenly appeared however now the availability of a car and the possibility of a pint in the Wheatsheaf Inn, at Lorton, was too strong a pull and we took the car option.
It was pleasing to see the bus coming by and perhaps should have flagged it down but the pint and chips were a good reward for quite a day. Looking at the guidebook I might go back and have a look at Buttermere Gully - but then expect a long day.
Super day out - will have to go back and do Buttermere and get the bus back !

Wainwrights without a car - Jagged Lakes

24/07/2026

08/07/2026

03/07/2026

22/06/2026

14/06/2026

30/05/2026

30/05/2026

30/04/2026

29/04/2026

26/04/2026

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