Association of Canadian Mountain Guides

Association of Canadian Mountain Guides The ACMG is a professional association of trained and certified Mountain Guides, Hiking Guides, and Climbing Instructors.
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As a group, the ACMG presents a strong voice for high standards of alpine risk management and the professionalism of mountain guiding in Canada. It is an organization grounded in powerful tradition, yet agile enough to remain current in an ever-changing arena. As individuals, our members are highly talented, dedicated professionals who are committed to providing safe and exciting mountain adventur

es as well as indoor and outdoor climbing instruction to all members of the public. Blending physical skill and toughness with excellent judgement and compassion, our members are highly regarded throughout the world as among the best in their respective disciplines.

Icefields Parkway AlpineParks Canada - Wednesday, August 26, 2026 - 14:15Flight over the icefields corridor on August 25...
08/26/2026

Icefields Parkway Alpine

Parks Canada - Wednesday, August 26, 2026 - 14:15

Flight over the icefields corridor on August 25th.

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Flight over the icefields corridor on August 25th.

Tonquin Valley, JasperParks Canada - Tuesday, August 25, 2026 - 10:45A flight over the Tonquin Valley was conducted this...
08/26/2026

Tonquin Valley, Jasper

Parks Canada - Tuesday, August 25, 2026 - 10:45

A flight over the Tonquin Valley was conducted this week. We observed generally dry conditions throughout the alpine, with minimal recent snowfall evident at higher elevations. Glaciers retain some snow coverage; however, many sections have transitioned to exposed ice, particularly on lower-angle and sun-exposed terrain. Bergschrunds are now wide open in many areas and may present significant route-finding and access challenges.

Snow coverage in alpine gullies remains generally good, with continuous snow still present on many north-facing and sheltered aspects.

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A flight over the Tonquin Valley was conducted this week. We observed generally dry conditions throughout the alpine, with minimal recent snowfall evident at higher elevations. Glaciers retain some snow coverage; however, many sections have transitioned to exposed ice, particularly on lower-angle an...

East Ridge TempleTakeshi Tani - Tuesday, August 25, 2026 - 21:00Climbed the East Ridge of Mt. Temple on August 25. Overa...
08/26/2026

East Ridge Temple

Takeshi Tani - Tuesday, August 25, 2026 - 21:00

Climbed the East Ridge of Mt. Temple on August 25. Overall route conditions were good.

Big Step: All fixed hardware is in good shape.

Black Tower: Snow is mostly gone, with only a few remaining patches at the base. Water running/drip is available if air temperatures are warm. The rock on the Black Tower felt looser than usual, likely due to reduced traffic in recent years from complicated access to Moraine Lake.

Glacier: The glacier transition is down to bare ice; proper steel crampons and ice tools are required. see the picture.

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Mountain Conditions Report 404 The page that you are trying to access doesn't appear to exist. See Latest Reports View Our Guides 2897 reads

YuhhaihaskunIan Welsted - Friday, August 21, 2026 - 15:30Between August 14th and August 21st the Kain Face of Robson und...
08/23/2026

Yuhhaihaskun

Ian Welsted - Friday, August 21, 2026 - 15:30

Between August 14th and August 21st the Kain Face of Robson underwent a significant avalanche cycle. On the 14th my client and I descended from the Dome while two other teams climbed to the summit, reporting deep snow on the face and only screws after significant digging. Another friend attempted to guide it in the intervening period but reported watching repeated wet slides down face on Tuesday the 18th and Wednesday the 19th with a couple of days of inclement weather.

On my second visit, with apprentice guide Connor Arnason, we encountered friends who declined to climb on Thursday the 20th after these reports of widespread avalanching, as well as a team of three from Squamish who reported soloing the route to the summit, and predominantly v-threads on the Kain Face for descent.

On Friday the 21st we had a refreeze substantial enough to walk on which gave way to isothermal snow under a thin crust on the face which accepted pickets for the first couple of pitches, then screws for the top few pitches. Travel on the upper mountain was mostly boot deep bucket steps but by our descent ice was rapidly showing through.

We left the mountain to intermittent rain showers at the Dome on Saturday the 22nd

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Between August 14th and August 21st the Kain Face of Robson underwent a significant avalanche cycle. On the 14th my client and I descended from the Dome while two other teams climbed to the summit, reporting deep snow on the face and only screws after significant digging. Another friend attempted to...

Farnham/CommanderDavid Lussier - Saturday, August 22, 2026 - 21:15Hi all,Guided an ascent of Mount Farnham (3394m) via t...
08/23/2026

Farnham/Commander

David Lussier - Saturday, August 22, 2026 - 21:15

Hi all,

Guided an ascent of Mount Farnham (3394m) via the South Ridge August 21, 2026

Smoke was manageable and variable with nice visibility at times. Road is in great all wheel drive conditions. Lots of water on approach and in the upper southwest cirque. We use crampons and ice axe on the snow covered high ramp leading to the base of the route. Although this wasn't necessary, snow walking provided a nice break from all the balancy walking on rocks. The route is dry and in good conditions.

We got some good views of the Commander Glacier and the Jumbo area across the valley (see photo). The firn line appears to be around 2675m.

Great alpine conditions among the Purcell crown jewels!

David Lussier

ACMG Mountain Guide

www.summitmountainguides.com

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Hi all, Guided an ascent of Mount Farnham (3394m) via the South Ridge August 21, 2026 Smoke was manageable and variable with nice visibility at times. Road is in great all wheel drive conditions. Lots of water on approach and in the upper southwest cirque. We use crampons and ice axe on the snow cov...

Gold RangeNick Baggaley - Friday, August 21, 2026 - 09:45Module 2 of the 2026 AG Exam took place in the Gold Range of th...
08/21/2026

Gold Range

Nick Baggaley - Friday, August 21, 2026 - 09:45

Module 2 of the 2026 AG Exam took place in the Gold Range of the Monashees between August 17-20. Weather through the week was good, with mainly clear skies and some scattered clouds, and no precip. While smoke was present from a nearby fire to the west, it was notably less smoky in the alpine than in the Columbia Valley bottom. Minimal afternoon convective buildup was observed.

We flew into the F***g Cirque of the Gold Range on August 17th from Revelstoke and a staging on the Pingston Creek FSR. No logging activity was observed on the roads, and while we had a couple flats on the way out the road was in decent shape with no high clearance vehicle required.

Groups climbed Mt Mjolnir via the East Ridge, the Angry Ptarmigan traverse to the east ridge of Mt Odin; Mt Hugin via the Northeast Ridge and North Face, and Mt Munin via the Northwest Ridge. We also traveled on the F***g Glacier and Raven's Descent down the Munin Glacier.

Snow line in the area is between 2400-2600m depending on aspect. The snowpack is well settled and in good travel conditions; where snow plugs are present they are generally supportive through the day. Ridges are in reasonably good shape with expected amounts of loose rock on otherwise good blocky gneiss. With more travel, and lichen and loose chunks being cleaned off, these routes would clean up very well. We fixed up rappel anchors to descend Hugin and Munin.

Due to generally loose alpine rock and some massive teetering blocks, we would tend to recommend ridge climbs over face routes in this area. A recreational party was rescued off the Goldilocks Traverse on Mt Munin on August 20th after a large rock tumbled and caused injury.

There was a moderate amount of natural rockfall later in the week with increased warming; notably off the south side of the Hugin NE Ridge that came down the north edge of the Raven's Descent. We avoided the far skiers left of that glacier and rappelled ice further to the right.

The group hiked out on the 20th via alpine meadows from our camp at the upper F***g tarn to Mooncastle Lake and then down to the main drainage; we were able to pick up a well flagged trail north of the creek that took us down to the Pingston FSR. The trail is well established but steep and crumbly, and would likely take a fit party 3-4 hours to ascend with a heavy pack.

Nick Baggaley, on behalf of the 2026 Alpine Guide candidates and examiners

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Module 2 of the 2026 AG Exam took place in the Gold Range of the Monashees between August 17-20. Weather through the week was good, with mainly clear skies and some scattered clouds, and no precip. While smoke was present from a nearby fire to the west, it was notably less smoky in the alpine than i...

Wapta Icefields - Bow to Peyto Glacier TrekJorg Wilz - Thursday, August 20, 2026 - 14:15We did the "Little Wapta Travers...
08/20/2026

Wapta Icefields - Bow to Peyto Glacier Trek

Jorg Wilz - Thursday, August 20, 2026 - 14:15

We did the "Little Wapta Traverse" Bow Lake to Peyto Lake with overnights at Bow and Peyto Hut this Monday through Wednesday.

Glaciers are largely snow-free on their lower halfs except Peyto Placier is bare ice almost to the saddle below Mt. Thompson. Despite warm nights and some rain on Tuesday, the snow covered glacier sections were firm and travelled pretty well even though it was very sun-cupped.

The descent from Peyto Glacier off the ledge descender's left still has a snow-plug that is overhanging on the top end and thin in places, which comes with hazard of collapsing / falling through while descending. We opted to lower / rappel off the bolt anchors looker's left of the snow plug which comes with some rock fall hazard, even though we tried to clean it off from loose rock. A helmet and a 60m rope is definitely recommended if you opt for the rappell. I suspect another warm week may be enough to melt the remaining snow and then the spot can be quite easily descended along a little creek.

Cauldron Creek could be crossed relatively easily (boots on!) and for Peyto Creek we opted to walk all the way to its delta close to the Peyto Lake. A good soul has put some work into the trail on the moraine and side-hilling section above Peyto Creek including a bolted hand-line close to the narrows.Thank you!

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We did the "Little Wapta Traverse" Bow Lake to Peyto Lake with overnights at Bow and Peyto Hut this Monday through Wednesday. Glaciers are largely snow-free on their lower halfs except Peyto Glacier is bare ice almost to the saddle below Mt. Thompson. Despite warm nights and some rain on Tuesday, th...

Columbia IcefieldsSebastian Taborszky - Friday, August 14, 2026 - 11:30We climbed Mt Athabasca via Silverhorn route, and...
08/17/2026

Columbia Icefields

Sebastian Taborszky - Friday, August 14, 2026 - 11:30

We climbed Mt Athabasca via Silverhorn route, and down the Ramp route on Aug 14. Conditions were excellent, with a good overnight freeze and new snow starting around the nunatak. Old fern line is around the base of nunatak, 5-10 cm of fresh powder up Silverhorn and summit ridge. The Ramp descent was in very good shape, on supportive snow allowing for good steps kicking around 12h30. Of note, a large serac is separating below the Ramp, appearing ready to go and clean out the lower approach route, see pics. An old track also cuts up early towards the Ramp over a decaying bridge and masive crevasse.

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We climbed Mt Athabasca via Silverhorn route, and down the Ramp route on Aug 14. Conditions were excellent, with a good overnight freeze and new snow starting around the nunatak. Old fern line is around the base of nunatak, 5-10 cm of fresh powder up Silverhorn and summit ridge. The Ramp descent was...

Technical skills are only part of climbing well.The ACMG Climbing Guiding Manual explores the professional standards, sy...
08/16/2026

Technical skills are only part of climbing well.

The ACMG Climbing Guiding Manual explores the professional standards, systems and decision-making processes that support climbing guiding in Canada.

This manual covers foundational topics including materials and equipment, forces in the climbing system, knots and hitches, harnesses and rope connections, protection strategies, anchors and belaying.

Designed for guides, valuable for climbers, outdoor enthusiasts, and serious adventurers who want to better understand the technical skills and mountain judgement behind safe climbing days.

Available to the public.

Order at: https://acmg.ca/technical-manuals/

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