11/02/2019
How do chemicals used in textiles impact us?
When we enter a store to buy a garment, the things that immediately grab our attention are its color and style. Next, we pick up the garment to feel its texture and material. Based on the influence of these factors , we buy the garment, after checking the fit and considering the price, of course. While buying a garment, we do not bother to check if the garment contains any colors or chemicals or materials that can be harmful to our health or the environment. Nor do we wonder about the conditions in which the garment has been made.
Any textile or leather manufacturing facility uses hundreds of input chemicals in various processes to produce a finished article. Some chemicals are of flammable or combustible nature and can cause fire or blasts in your factory. Such accidents can lead to loss of life, besides damage to property and loss of business.
Some chemicals get fixed or remain as residues on the substrate, while others used in the production processes are washed out and enter the environment (river bodies/soil) through the effluent and sludge discharged from the production factory. You may be surprised to know that more than 600 substances that can be used in textile and leather production have been identified to be either harmful to human health or to the environment. The table below lists out the major chemical groups, their usage in textile production and harmful effects:
The effluent discharged from a textile mill or leather tannery (if not treated properly) contains many polluting chemicals that can affect aquatic life through increase in the Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD). Some chemicals can be toxic to fish. Other chemicals such as Urea and some sequestering agents contain phosphates cause Eutrophication, that is, excessive growth of algae in lakes and river surfaces that prevents sunlight and air pe*******on, resulting in the death of aquatic species
The need for chemical management:
With the shift in textile manufacturing from the West to the producer countries in the East, Supply chain management is now not only about deliveries, lead times, logistics, optimization, stock replenishments and prices, but also managing possible chemical risks that may surface in the product or in a production process.
In a report by Frost and Sullivan on Chemical & Material Practices, one of the Megatrends identified for companies to focus on (besides functionality, low carbon economy and globalization) is ‘Health and Wellness’. (Megatrends are long- term global transformational processes and arise at the interplay between what is happening to us as individuals and changes happening to the world at large). There is a growing trend of Consumers wanting companies to be ‘transparent’, that is, provide more information on what is in a product and how ethically it has been made. “Being Green” is the new mantra for apparel brands to make a cutting- edge differentiation in today’s competitive market.
Managing chemical risks becomes a business case for 4 reasons:
1. Brand & Reputation enhancement: Several global apparel brands have built a reputation of ensuring consumer safety by ensuring conformance in their supply chains to chemical restrictions through their ‘Restricted Substances List’ or RSL, which is a list of substances subject to a usage ban for production of their articles. Minimising chemical risks enhances a Brand’s image and its reputation. The compliance to the RSL is generally checked through random sampling and testing of the finished article at accredited laboratories.
2. Gaining a competitive edge: In order to differentiate their product offerings, some Brands have built- in the principles of sustainability in their Business Strategy. ‘Eco’ or ‘Green’ or ‘Organic’ are the new buzz words that help to drive up consumer trust in products against other competition. Companies that project an eco-friendly image are often perceived by customers are trust-worthy and reliable.
3. Innovation: Some Brands have used sustainability and chemical compliance as a tool for innovation. Patagonia’s “Because denim if filthy business” or Levis’ “Water
