10/09/2026
Remembering a Journalist
Jijo John Puthezhathu (54)
Jijo John Puthezhathu of Malayala Manorama, a senior journalist, died yesterday, 8 September 2026, around six in the morning, at the age of 54, probably by a massive heart attack. The news came as a shock.
I remember Jijo particularly for his affection for the people who lived before us — the ancestors buried beneath the coconut groves of Pattanam.
It must have been many years ago that he first came to Pattanam and almost stayed with the excavation team for a whole day. He had so many questions. He returned for a few more visits, and after a gap of nearly ten years, I was told that he had again visited the site and was planning to come and see me at the PAMA Centre in Aluva.
Long ago, when I was probably around 54, he wrote one or two full-page stories on Pattanam in the Sunday Supplement of Malayala Manorama. If memory serves, the title of one was Pattanathil Bhootham. He was fascinated particularly by Pattanam’s transoceanic connections and by the second-century CE Muziris papyrus, that extraordinary document relating to a commercial transaction between Muziris and Alexandria.
He wanted to understand the papyrus better. When I told him that it had already been studied by several scholars, including my friend and distinguished scholar Federico Romanis, he asked for his contacts and writings. I sent him the relevant papers. He also wanted a photograph of Romanis.
That became almost a little story in itself. Romanis, who had been a shy and deeply affectionate visiting professor to teach classical Greek that mentions Muziris at great length at KCHR for nearly two months and had visited Pattanam several times, apparently told Jijo that he too was helpless about providing a photograph!
But there is another memory that perhaps explains why the word affection comes to mind whenever I think of Jijo.
One afternoon he came to visit me at Pattanam. My room had one chair, a table and a bed on the floor. I naturally asked him to take the chair while I sat on the floor with my back against the wall.
He was embarrassed — almost painfully shocked — that a 54-year-old teacher and Director of the excavations was sleeping on the floor.
Jijo could not simply leave it at that.
He went out, spoke to members of the team and somehow found a solution. Next door to the house used for the Pattanam team’s accommodation and for storing artefacts. There were inexpensive beds made by a neighbouring carpenter, using coconut wood.
He made sure that I got one.
That small gesture remains with me. It was not merely concern for comfort. It was Jijo’s way of caring.
He was also endlessly curious about his own island, Gothuruthu. He would often ask me:
“What could Gothuruthu have been like in the Pattanam times, when Muziris was something like a Shanghai, New York or London of the twenty-first century?”
It was not an easy question to answer.
Perhaps I should have answered him differently.
Perhaps we could have imagined it together.
Just a little downstream from the legendary island of Pattanam, there could have been another island — dreamy, green and river-bound — called Gothuruthu.
The Western Ghats would have appeared on the eastern horizon, and beyond the waterways would have been the Neithal coast and the Arabian Sea. Canoes and larger vessels would come and go with the tides. People speaking different languages would arrive, carrying gold, w**e and stories. In exchange for pepper, honey, forest goods such as ivory, tortoise shells, medicinal plants, intaglios, pearls, beads, textiles, metals, arrack, toddy and wide variety of mulled w**es, beautiful adornments etc made by the artists and medical professionals of the Sangam Age (300 BC and 300 AD)
And at the entrance to the island there might have been a simple wooden welcome board:
WELCOME TO GOTHURUTHU ISLAND OR THE HAVEN OF
THE VIRTUE OF MEASUREMENT
Perhaps that was the secret of the island.
Not too much. Not too little. Again balancing with Sramana priorities of AUPP - എളിമ, ഉള്ളിലെ നേരു, പ്രപഞ്ച വാൽസല്യവു, വകതിരിവു
The best arrack of the Periyar country could be exchanged here with mulled w**e prepared by travellers from faraway lands. Twelve varieties of Mediterranean w**e might sit beside the local drink, arrack and toddy, each appreciated for what it was.
Nobody needed to declare one superior to the other.
The virtue was in measurement.
In knowing when enough was enough.
In the evening, musicians might gather near the water. Travellers from the Mediterranean, the Red Sea, the eastern shores of India and the islands beyond Sri Lanka, beyond South Malay Peninsula to South China could sit together with people of the Periyar country. Food, cuisines from nearby forty cultures would pass from hand to hand. Stories would travel faster than merchandise.
Perhaps Jijo would have loved such an island.
Perhaps Gothuruthu, in his imagination, was already something like this.
I had been wanting to tell him that, if he came again, I would imagine Gothuruthu as a satellite settlement of Muziris — perhaps something like Singapore or Dubai today, but without their skyscrapers. An island between the Western Ghats and the Neithal coast, welcoming people from many cultures. A place where travellers could meet, eat, drink, make merry and care for the wellbeing of the body. They were great practitioners of balancing AUPP
Perhaps, in that distant world, Gothuruthu could indeed have been a haven on earth.
Jijo never stopped asking questions about such connections between the landscape of his own time and the landscape buried beneath it. That was perhaps his special relationship with Pattanam and Gothuruthu.
He was a journalist, but his curiosity often took him beyond the immediate news. He wanted to know what lay underneath — beneath the coconut groves, beneath the islands, beneath the stories handed down to us through the archaeological research at Pattanam.
That is why I feel that Jijo belonged, in his own gentle way, to the continuing conversation about the people and places of the ancient Periyar landscape.
Perhaps the Pattanam of our ancestors and the Gothuruthu of Jijo’s imagination were never really separate islands.
Perhaps they were several ways of looking at the same river — one through archaeology, another through written records in Tamil, Sanskrit, Greek and Latin, the other through memory and imagination.
Thank you, dear Jijo, for keeping alive that rare cosmic affection for Gothuruthu and the Neithal landscape — and for those people who lived here between 300 BCE and 300 CE.
Perhaps, had you come to PAMA in Aluva as you had planned, we would have continued our unfinished conversation about that dreamy island.
Instead, I can only offer these memories.
And perhaps there is no better farewell than the words of Kaniyan Kundranar in Purananuru 192, written nearly two thousand years ago.
പുറനാനൂറ് 192
മരണത്തില് എന്താണ് പുതുമയായുള്ളത്?
എല്ലാ പട്ടണങ്ങളും എല്ലാവരുടെയും പട്ടണങ്ങളാണ് .
എല്ലാവരും നമ്മുടെ രക്തബന്ധുക്കളും
തോൽവിയോ സമുന്നതിയോ ആരെങ്കിലും നമുക്ക് അയച്ചുതരുന്നവയല്ല
കഷ്ട-ക്ലേശങ്ങൾ ഉണ്ടാവുന്നതും ഇല്ലാതാവുന്നതും അങ്ങനെ തന്നെ
മരണത്തില് എന്താണ് പുതുമയായുള്ളത്?
ജീവിതം എത്രമേൽ രുചികരമെങ്കിലും അതിൽ മാത്രം നമുക്ക് മുഴുകുവാനാകുമോ ?.
കൊടും ദുരന്തങ്ങൾ വന്നാലും ഇനി ജീവിതം വേണ്ടാന്ന് കരുതുകയും ആവതില്ല.
മുന്നേ നടന്നവർ പറഞ്ഞ് നമുക്കറിയാം – ഓരോ ജീവനും ഇല്ലായ്മകളും കഷ്ടതകളും പേറുന്ന പെരിയ പുഴയിൽ പ്പെട്ട ചെങ്ങാടം പോലെ
ഇടക്കത് പാറകളില് തട്ടും. മിന്നല്പ്പിണരുകള്ക്കിടയിലെ ഇരുണ്ട കാർമേഘപ്പാളികളുടെ തണുത്തുറഞ്ഞ മഴത്തുള്ളികൾ അതില് പതിക്കും
എന്നാലും അത് മുന്നോട്ടു തന്നെ നീങ്ങും .
അതുകൊണ്ടാവും, അതുകൊണ്ടാവും, വലിയവരെ കണ്ട് നാം മതിമറക്കാറില്ല.
എളിയവരെ നിസാരമായി കരുതാറുമില്ല.
Pandit Ramesh Narayanan’s recitation — “What Is New in Death!” — a vision song of PAMA and the Sangam Age ancestors of ancient Kerala, can be heard from the link below.
PJ A Sramana in the making
09/09/2026
(The author was the director of Pattanam Excavations from 2006 to 2022.)
PS, AUPP may be translated as the art and science of balancing എളിമ, ഉള്ളിലെ നേരു, പ്രപഞ്ച വാൽസല്യവും വകതിരിവും