14/11/2019
This time in the year (Summer) is the perfect time to consider painting and give your home’s exterior a revamp. A coat of paint is the most simple and speedy makeover you can give your home, improving both its appearance and value almost overnight. But rushing into it hardly ends well.
Approach painting in a professional way by determining the size and scope of the project. The type of surfaces will determine the type of paints to be used. Some exterior paints can be used across a range of surfaces while others are very specific in their uses.
A paint job can only be as good as the prep. So at the very least, wash surfaces with soapy water, hose down and allow to dry.
If repainting window frames and trims likelihood is, you’ll be painting over older gloss paint. For best results, sand the surfaces thoroughly and dust off before painting. Flaking paint job may need to be scraped, but it’s not always easy to tell if the paint is sound. To check the adhesion of an old paint, use a sharp blade to cut an X about 5cm in size through the old paint. Put some masking tape over the cut and push on it firmly. Quickly pull the tape off. If the edges of the cut area comes off, you’ll need to scrape and sand surface. Fill any dents or holes in the surface with an exterior-grade filler. Use acrylic sealants for cracks or gaps in areas where there may be movement such as near doors and windows. Be sure to use paintable sealants not silicone on areas to be painted. Unpainted surfaces may require sanding, cleaning and undercoating before painting.
Weatherboards may require moss and mould treatment before a new coat of paint.
Only use paints designed for exteriors and stick with acrylic-based paints. Some surfaces, such as metal or plastic downpipes may require pre-painting with special undercoats or primers.
Most paint label will provide coverage information (square metres per litre). It is generally assumed all surfaces will require at least two coats of paint.
To make the painting process run smoothly and ensure a clear run, move any outdoor furniture out of the way and prune or tie back any branches in the way. Use masking tape to mask off areas that need protection. If using spray equipment, tape plastic sheeting over windows to protect them.
Consider height access ( Ladders will generally suffice for single-storey homes). For higher areas, portable scaffold towers are quite simple to set up, use and move. For a perfect rendered wall, any cracks should be filled and sanded back for a quality finish.
Always check the forecast before painting. Not just in case of rain, but because hot surfaces shouldn’t be painted. The wall temperature can vary from the weather temperature and must be above 10°C and below 35°C throughout the process. Ideally switch the areas worked on as the sun moves, so painting should move to shaded areas. Paint from the top down, starting with the gutters, then the fascia (the board under the gutter) and eaves (between the fascia and the wall). Next, move onto the walls.
The equipment required here is dependent on the nature of the surface to be painted. Weatherboards will need to be painted with a small roller, brush or spray, while brick and render can be painted with sprays or extra-long nap rollers. Tackle the trims and windows last, making sure the windows are open so they don’t get glued shut. It’s also important to leave enough drying time between coats.
Use the information on the paint tin as a guide.
Once the job’s done, it’s time to clean up. Don’t rinse waste paint or gear so the wastewater runs down drains or street gutter. Do it over the lawn or a garden area, then water it well afterwards.
Use a brush to work as much paint as possible from the trays or pots back into the tin, then use newspaper to wipe out the bulk of the residual paint, finally rinse with water.
Put the brush into a bucket of water, allow it to sit for a few minutes before shaking and using the bucket lip to remove excess paint. Repeat until clean. Rollers are most easily cleaned with a roller cover cleaner, attach it to the hose and run to clean.
Note: Prior to the 70s, many paints contained lead. This means older houses may have lead-based paints present and care needs to be taken when sanding or stripping.
Any houses built prior to 90s with fibre-cement cladding will likely contain asbestos. Asbestos fibres may be present in weatherboard or sheets on walls, eaves, fascia, gable ends and the like. Avoid sanding, scraping or damaging these materials.
Invest in quality brushes and rollers. They give better finishing, more even paint distribution and won’t need you stopping the job to pick loose bristles and roller fluff from the painted surface. They’ll also last longer when properly cleaned and stored.
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