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विश्व बहुउद्देश्यीय कृषि तथा अनुसन्धान फार्म We Sale Hard-cheese( छुर्पि )within Nepal and Export quality for Exporters too. Futher inquiries please call at +9779820232945

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21/02/2026
05/04/2024

बादरको विधोङ्सबाट बच्ने जुग्ती !!🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

03/04/2024

यी नानिहरुको कला मन परे सेयर गर्दिनुहोला 🇳🇵🇳🇵

02/04/2024

#श्रीखण्ड #नर्सरी

सितलचिनि /सजिउन (ड्रमस्टिक)Drumstick खादा के फाइदा हुन्छ ? -पहाडमा सितलचिनि तथा तराईमा मुनुङ्गा/सजहन/सोइजन जस्ता नामले प...
02/04/2024

सितलचिनि /सजिउन (ड्रमस्टिक)Drumstick खादा के फाइदा हुन्छ ?


-पहाडमा सितलचिनि तथा तराईमा मुनुङ्गा/सजहन/सोइजन जस्ता नामले प्रख्यात सजिउन को फुलको अचार/पात को साग र ग्रीन टि/ पकौडा र कोसाको तरकारी अत्यन्तै स्वादिलो र फाइदाजन छ।
-हाल बजारमा पात सुकायर बनेको पाउडर बाट क्याप्सुल गोलि बनायर विभिन्न रोगको लागि भनेर बजार तातेको पनि छ।
-मानब जिवनका लागि अति उपयोगी बनस्पति सजिउनमा भिटामिन ए बि र सि प्रचुर मात्रामा पाइन्छ भने फलाम प्रोटिन फाइबर क्यालसियम फोस्फोरस लगायत धेरै खनिज हरु समेत मनग्ये पाइन्छ।

-सजिउन को नियमित सेवनले मोटोपना घटाउन/रक्तअल्पता बाट जोगिन/कपाल झर्ने समस्या सामाधान गर्न साथै गठिया बाथ रोग बाट मुक्ति पाउन सकिने बिज्ञ हरुको धारणा रहेको छ।
-आयुर्वेदमा पिडानाशक तथा बिर्य बर्धक औषधि निर्माण गर्न सजिउन को जरा बोक्रा फुल बिउ र फलको उपयोग समेत हुने गरिन्छ।

-सजिउन बाट धेरैथरिका परिकार बनायर दैनिक उपभोग गर्न सकिन्छ। भारतमा फुटपाथ देखि पाच तारे होटल सम्म झन्डै १२५ प्रकारका परिकार हरु बन्ने गर्दछन।
-नेपालमा कलिलो कोषा लाइ आलुमा मिसायर तरकारी खाने चलन छ भने यसको ग्रेभि/सुप/ सलाद /साम्बर /मोरिङा मसला/अचार र दालमा मिसायर खाने चलन छ।

-सजिउन को चिया र पातको सेवन ले रगत सुदृढीकरण लाइ फाइदा हुने/रगतमा कोलेस्टेरोल को लेबल घट्ने/ उच्च रक्तचाप नियन्त्रण हुने/कुपोषण बाट जोगिने/खाना पचाउन मद्दत पुग्ने/ जरा कुटेर रस पिउदा मिर्गौला को पथ्थरि हटान मद्दत पुग्ने/ नियमित जुस सेवनले कलेजो बलियो र सफा हुने/मस्तिष्क र मुटु सम्बन्धि फाइदा हुने/पेट सफा तथा शरीर चुस्तदुरुस्त बनाउने हुन्छ।

-यो अत्यन्तै सजिलो संग लगाउन सकिन्छ र मनग्ये उत्पादन लिन सकिन्छ। यसको उत्पादन लिदा रुख पुरै मुडायर काटिने हुँदा ति काटिएका हागा हरुलाइ बैशाख देखि असार सम्म रोप्दा अर्को बर्ष नै उत्पादन लिन सकिन्छ।

PLANT FUNGUS: IDENTIFY & TREAT  FUNGAL GROWTHIDENTIFYING PLANT FUNGUSUsually, you'll know at a glance that something is ...
31/03/2024

PLANT FUNGUS: IDENTIFY & TREAT FUNGAL GROWTH

IDENTIFYING PLANT FUNGUS

Usually, you'll know at a glance that something is amiss with your plants. Fungus is usually noticeable on the leaves and stems of plants, and leaves having spots or being wilted will be your first clue that there might be a fungal problem.

PLANT FUNGUS DISEASES INFOGRAPHIC

By knowing what to look for, and being able to identify the most common types of plant fungus you're likely to come across, you'll be that much closer to getting your plants the help they need. With that in mind, here are eight of the most common garden fungus issues.

POWDERY MILDEW

Mildew on plant leaf
Powdery mildew is one of the easiest to figure out in terms of garden fungus identification, mostly because it looks exactly how you'd expect: like someone has coated the leaves of your plant with a fine dusting of powder. Eventually, the leaves will start to turn grayish brown, dry up, and fall off.

If left alone, the fungus will spread to the stems of the plant, and eventually there will be so much leaf die-off that the plant won't be able to sustain itself. While most fungal issues are less of an issue in dry weather, this is one that will still continue to thrive, even in non-humid conditions.

PLANTS LIKELY TO GET POWDERY MILDEW

Lilacs, squashes, cucumbers, monarda, apples, grapes, phlox, zinnias, peonies, and roses are especially susceptible to powdery mildew.

GETTING RID OF POWDERY MILDEW

To get rid of powdery mildew, remove any affected leaves from the plant as soon as you notice them, and then destroy (don't compost) them. Keep an eye on the plant to make sure it's not spreading. If you keep a close eye on it, it likely won't ever get to the point where it will damage your plant, and by removing affected leaves as soon as you see them, you'll keep your plant looking nice as well.

There are several homemade remedies for powdery mildew, usually incorporating baking soda, oil, and soap, but these usually aren't effective, can sometimes cause more harm than good, and can result in a sodium buildup in the soil, which can affect overall plant health. In general, just remove affected leaves, and that's all that's needed.

If it seems like powdery mildew is spreading faster than you can keep up with it, you can try a commercially available fungicide for powdery mildew, or try this DIY recipe:

One gallon of water
½ teaspoon of liquid soap
1 tablespoon potassium bicarbonate (NOT baking soda/sodium bicarbonate)
Mix the ingredients, and then spray onto the leaves daily. Potassium bicarbonate has been shown to kill mildew spores, so this should keep it from spreading.

It's worth noting that you can't "undo" fungal issues, so once a leaf has it, the best thing you can do is remove the leaf.

DOWNY MILDEW

Cucumber leaves affected by downy mildew
Downy mildew is most commonly an issue in cool, damp environments that don't have adequate airflow. It's most likely to affect young plants that haven't fully established themselves in the garden, as well as unhealthy or stressed plants.

Downy mildew causes the upper side of the leaf to develop a white or yellow, blotchy appearance. The undersides of the affected leaves will develop a gray, fuzzy-looking mildew. Eventually, the spots on the upper sides of the leaves will turn gray or brown, and the leaf will get dry and fall off.

Temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit are where downy mildew thrives, so you'll want to be more on the lookout for this issue during the cooler parts of the growing season.

PLANTS LIKELY TO GET DOWNY MILDEW

Downy mildew can affect both edible and ornamental plants. In the vegetable garden, you'll want to keep an eye on:

Broccoli
Cauliflower
Cabbage
Lettuce
Ornamental plants such as pansies, snapdragons, salvias, and columbine can also be affected.

HOW TO GET RID OF DOWNY MILDEW

There is no fungicide or spray that will get rid of downy mildew in your garden. Your best bet is to remove and destroy affected leaves, or, if it's affected an entire plant, pull the plant completely.

The spores of downy mildew can overwinter in soil, mulch, and other plant debris, so thoroughly cleaning up any area of your garden where you've had this issue is a must, as well as not planting plants that are susceptible to downy mildew in that spot for a year or two.

BLACK SPOT

Rose bush with disease. Brown spot on leaves
If you grow roses, black spot is the most common plant fungus you'll likely deal with. If you start noticing gray, brown, or black spots forming on the leaves, and then start seeing leaf drop as a result, there's a very good chance you're dealing with black spot.

Black spot is most often an issue in cool, damp weather, or in areas where there isn't good air circulation around the plant, allowing fungus to flourish. Black spot usually isn't likely to kill your plant, but the loss of leaves (if there's a lot of leaf drop) can eventually weaken the plant overall, which is practically an invitation to other pests and diseases.

PLANTS LIKELY TO GET BLACK SPOT

Roses are the plants that have the most frequent issues with black spot, but other plants affected by this fungal disease include:

Dahlias
Anemone
Gardenia
Ranunculus
Hibiscus
However, nearly any deciduous plant can be affected by black spot if damp, cool conditions are present.

HOW TO GET RID OF BLACK SPOT

Black spot is another fungal issue that can overwinter in soil and fallen plant debris, so your best bet for protecting your plants is to quickly remove and destroy any affected leaves, both those on the plant and those that have already dropped to the ground.

If the plant isn't getting good airflow, you might want to consider pruning out some of the branches to open the plant up a bit. It's also a good idea to mulch the soil around any susceptible plants to keep infected soil from splashing back up onto the leaves.

And, finally, a fungicide formulated for the specific plant (roses are the most common) might be a good idea. It will keep the black spot from spreading and save your plant from further health issues.

RUST

Rust fungus on leaf
Rust is another plant fungus that looks exactly as you'd expect it to: it looks like orange-brown rust is forming on the leaves of your plants. This is actually a large, varied group of fungi, with over 5,000 different types of fungus. However, the most common type of rust you'll deal with in your garden is Phragmidium.

Rust thrives in areas that are in partial to full shade, as well as moist, warm conditions. If you grow any of the commonly affected plants in these conditions, it pays to inspect your plants regularly in the hopes of catching any rust issues as soon as possible. Newly forming rust will be present on the undersides of the leaves, and will look whitish in color and have a slightly lumpy texture. Eventually, they'll turn that familiar rust color, and then yellow, and eventually the leaf will fall off.

Rust spots are small, and can be scattered all over the leaf and stem. If it isn't caught early on, it can eventually cause the plant to drop most or all of its leaves, which can stunt growth, or even kill the plant outright.

PLANTS LIKELY TO GET RUST

Some of the most popular garden plants can be affected by rust. Keep an eye out for this fungus on these plants, especially if they're growing in a shadier spot:

Hollyhocks
Sunflowers
Beans
Tomatoes
Daylilies
Snapdragons
Pansies
Lilies
Carnations

HOW TO GET RID OF RUST

The first step in controlling rust in your garden is to be vigilant. Check any of the commonly affected plants you might grow and remove any leaves that start showing signs of rust.

Be sure to clean up any leaves that fall from these plants and destroy (don't compost).

There are commercial fungicides available, and these are a good choice if you're seeing a large amount of rust on your plants.

There are also rust-resistant varieties of most of these commonly affected plants, so if you've found rust to be a persistent issue in your garden, it might be worthwhile to plant some resistant varieties.

FUSARIUM WILT

Chili disease viral diseases
Fusarium wilt affects both edible and ornamental plants. It's most commonly seen during the heat of summer. Basically, your plant just starts looking sad: drooping, wilted leaves that no amount of water can revive, along with (eventually) a black, rotted stem and rotted roots.

The fungus that causes fusarium lives in the soil and is carried through the roots into the rest of the plant.

PLANTS LIKELY TO GET FUSARIUM WILT

Luckily, fusarium wilt isn't a fungus that affects a wide variety of plants. If you start noticing the above symptoms with any of the following plants, there's a good chance you're dealing with fusarium wilt:

Asparagus
Beans
Eggplant
Peas
Peppers
Tomatoes
Dianthus
It's most commonly an issue for tomatoes, but it pays to be on the lookout for it if you grow any of these plants.

HOW TO GET RID OF FUSARIUM WILT

The fungal spores that cause fusarium wilt can live in soil for five to 10 years, so if you find some of your plants affected by it, it's important to make note of that fact and ensure that you're not planting types of plants that are also susceptible to it in that spot for the next few years.

There isn't any spray or other treatment to get rid of fusarium wilt. Your best bet is to remove any plants. Don't add these plants to your compost pile; dispose of them in the trash instead.

You can often kill the fungus in the soil by covering the area with black plastic and leaving it for several weeks (or an entire growing season, if you want to be really safe.)

You can also find varieties of most of these plants that are resistant to fusarium, so that would be a great option if this is an issue that seems to pop up frequently in your garden.

VERTICALLY UM WILT

blackcurrant leaves damaged by fungal disease Fusarium or Verticillium wilt
Like fusarium wilt, verticillium is a pathogen that lives in the soil and is brought up into the plant via its roots. However, unlike fusarium which attacks a fairly focused number of plants, verticillium can affect just about any plant if conditions are right and the fungus is present in the soil.

And because it eventually clogs up the vascular system of the plants, which moves nutrients, water, and carbon dioxide through the roots, stems, and leaves, it can quite often spell death for the plant if left untreated.

Verticillium wilt makes the leaves wilt, shrivel, and fall off, sometimes all on one side of the plant. Eventually, the stems, branches, and roots will also rot.

HOW TO GET RID OF VERTICAL LIMIT WILT

Again, like fusarium, there is no treatment for verticillium wilt. Your best option is to remove any affected plant, and then either leave the area unplanted or solarize the soil (cover it with black plastic so the heat of the sun will kill the fungus).

Verticillium wilt can last in the soil for up to ten years. Solarizing is your best option, and with be sure to destroy (not compost) any affected plants so it doesn't spread to other areas of your garden.

BLIGHT

Tomatoes get sick by late blight. Phytophthora infestans.
The most common blight gardeners come up against affects potato and tomato plants. Blights are spread via spores, either being splashed up onto plant leaves from the soil, or (even worse) being carried on the wind.

Blight first appears as papery, light brown splotches on the leaves of plants, and eventually the entire leaf shrivels and falls off. Blight spreads the most readily in warm, humid conditions, and can persist in the soil via fallen leaves or even infected tubers (in the case of potato blight).

PLANTS THAT CAN GET BLIGHT

Blight is most commonly associated with tomato and potato plants.

HOW TO GET RID OF BLIGHT

Once you notice blight, there's not much you can do to stop it. If you're growing potatoes, your best option to get a crop of edible potatoes is to cut off any stems and foliage all the way back to the ground and dig up any potatoes you can. For tomatoes, you can let the plants keep growing in the hopes that you might get some harvest-size fruits.

All leaves, stems, and roots should be removed from the garden and destroyed. Don't compost them, since you'll risk spreading blight to your other garden beds.

There are blight-resistant varieties of potatoes and tomatoes available, and if you commonly have this issue in your garden, it's a good idea to seek out those varieties.

ANTHRACNOSE

Walnut anthracnose or walnut black spot
Anthracnose causes small gray or brown spots on plant leaves and stems, as if someone has sprinkled them with a fungal version of glitter. It's also known as leaf blight or twig blight. This fungus thrives in cool, wet conditions, so it generally tends to show up in spring. It affects a wide variety of garden plants, but the good news is that although anthracnose isn't the prettiest look for your garden, it's rarely fatal, and chances are good that your plants will bounce back just fine.

PLANTS THAT CAN GET ANTHRACNOSE

Anthracnose can affect a variety of plants, including shrubs, trees, perennials, annuals, and succulents.

HOW TO GET RID OF ANTHRACNOSE

Once you notice the telltale spots on the leaves of your plants, clip them off and dispose of them in the trash. Also, be sure to rake up and remove any stems or fallen leaves, and consider mulching the soil around your plants to keep any fungus in the soil from splashing up onto your plants. There really isn't any spray or other treatment for anthracnose.

GARDEN HYGIENE AND PRUNING TO PREVENT FUNGUS

Once you've identified what type of fungus you're dealing with, you can also work on preventing it in the future. Many fungal issues are encouraged by poor airflow, so consider pruning and thinning your plants, as well as mulching the soil and making sure you rake up any leaves from around diseased plants. A little vigilance, some preventative measures, and a touch of garden tidiness will go a long way toward having fewer fungal issues to deal with.

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MAKING COMPOSTCOMPOSTING: PILE METHOD (high rainfall) This method is suitable for areas with high rainfall1. Select a lo...
30/03/2024

MAKING COMPOST

COMPOSTING: PILE METHOD (high rainfall)

This method is suitable for areas with high rainfall
1. Select a location close to where you want to use the compost. The place should be sheltered from the wind, rain, sun and runoff. A compost pile must not get either very dry or very wet.

2. Measure a rectangle 120 cm (4 feet) wide and 150 cm (5 feet) or more long. The length depends on how much composting material you have. Do not make the rectangle wider than 120 cm, as you have to be able to work on the compost without stepping on it. In rainy places, it is best to make the compost pile above the ground. In drier areas, use the pit method described later in this section.

3. Dig a shallow pit about 30 cm (1 foot) deep. Put the soil on one side, you will need it later.

4. Begin building a compost pile by putting a bottom layer of rough materials such as maize stalks and hedge cuttings in the pit. This layer should be about 30 cm thick. Chop up any materials which are too long to improve the air circulation in the pile. Sprinkle some water on this layer.

5. Add a second layer of dry vegetation, hedge cuttings or grass. This layer should be about 15 cm thick (6 inches). Sprinkle water on this layer too. You should sprinkle water on each layer as you add it. The pile should be moist throughout.
6. Put on a third layer of animal manure. The manure contains micro-organisms which are vital for decomposition.

7. Sprinkle some ash or dust on this layer. The ashes contain valuable mineral including potassium, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. The ashes also neutralise the acids produced during decomposition, especially by the animal manure.

8. The next layer should be green leaves from high-protein leguminous trees like Calliandra, Leucaena and Sesbania . You can also use hedge cuttings of plants like Tithonia .

9. Sprinkle on a little topsoil or old compost. The topsoil contains bacteria which are useful in the decomposition process.
Composting pile method
(c) Reproduced from Sustainable Agricult Extension Manual (IIRR)

0. Add more layers in turn, starting with dry vegetative materials, then animal manure or biogas slurry, followed by wood ash, green vegetation and topsoil. Remember to sprinkle water on every layer. Build the pile up to 1.5 m (5 feet) high. A well-made pile has almost vertical sides and a flat top.

1. To complete the pile, cover it all over with a layer of topsoil about 10 cm (4 inches) thick. This layer prevents plant nutrients from escaping from the compost pile. Lastly, cover the whole with dry vegetation such as banana leaves to reduce moisture loss through evaporation.

2. Take a long, sharp, pointed stick and drive it in at an angle so that it passes through the pile from top to bottom. This stick will act as your “thermometer”. After 3 days, decomposition will have started in the pile, and the stick will be warm when you pull it out.

3. Pull the “thermometer-stick” out from time to time to check the progress of the pile. You can also tell from the thermometer how dry or wet the pile is: it should be moist but not wet.

4. Sprinkle water on the pile occasionally (about every 3 days, depending on the weather). If it has been raining, you may not need to water the pile.

5. After 2-3 weeks, turn the pile over. Do not add any fresh materials except water. You must turn the pile if the “thermometer-stick” is cold when you pull it out, or if it has a white substance on it, as this shows that decomposition has stopped. Turning the pile is important because it mixes the different layers, making the decomposition faster and more complete.

6. The compost should be ready after 4 weeks. Check the temperature of the pile to make sure. If the stick feels warm when you pull it out, the pile is still decomposing and the compost is not ready. Finished compost should have a fresh, earthy smell and should contain no grass, leaves, or animal manure.

7. You can store compost by covering it with a layer of banana leaves or polythene.
Well-decomposed compost should be applied at the rate of 20 t/ha (8 t/acre): about two large hoefuls per square metre, or enough to barely cover the ground with a layer 1 cm (0.4 inch) thick.

COMPOSTING: PIT METHOD (low rainfall)

This method is suitable for low-rainfall areas
The pit method of making compost conserves moisture, so it is useful in areas with low rainfall and a long dry season. Do not use it in wet areas, as the compost may become waterlogged.

1. Dig a pit 1.2 m (4 feet) wide and 0.6 m (2 feet) deep, and as long as you need for the amount of materials you have.

2. Build a pile in the pit, using the same method as in the pile method (see above).

3. Add a layer of wood ash (if available) along with urine and mud.

4. Next spread a 5cm layer of bedding with cattle dung and soil. Sprinkle with water until moist.

5. Continue adding layers until the material is 30 cm above ground level. Apply water. The heap will shrink as it decomposes.

6. Turn over the heap three times. Moisten with water each time. Decomposition needs proper mixing as well as circulation of water and air. You can ensure this by turning over the material three times:
First turning: 10-15 days after filling the pit
Second turning: 15 days later
Third turning: after 2 months.
At the third turning, you can take it out of the pit and put it back in. This helps the bacteria to get nitrogen out of the air.

HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL FARMER: 1. PatienceAs a farmer, you have to learn how to be patient because raising crops or ...
27/03/2024

HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL FARMER:

1. Patience
As a farmer, you have to learn how to be patient because raising crops or livestock takes time. Plus, it might not always turn out the way you expect. Farming comes with lots of unexpected circumstances, like pest infestations and disease outbreaks, market glut. Slow or unexpected results shouldn't frustrate a farmer set on being successful. Instead, take it in stride and plan for how to get it right next time.

2. Develop a Student Mentality
Approach the industry with a student mentality. You have to be willing and able to adapt to new technology, environments, and methods. Curiosity comes hand in hand with a student mentality, and as a farmer, you need lots of it to find success.

3. Knowledge and Skills
Knowledge and skills pair nicely together. In addition to learning new things, you need to be knowledgeable in every aspect of your farm. This includes close familiarity with every crop, finding out what works best for the farm, and how it operates.

4. Be a Problem Solver
As a farmer, you need to be a problem solver. A successful farmer knows how to deal with issues on all fronts of the business. You need to be able to identify and solve problems in order of significance.

5. Be Organized
As a business owner you have to keep track of a lot of factors, to keep your business running. To become successful you have to be organized, stay on top of your daily tasks, and remember a lot of farming is driven by time, product, and labour management.

6. Be Good with Numbers
When it comes to facts and figures, the farmer has to know what to do with them. Numbers play a bigger role in farming and most farmers don't know. As a farmer,you need to have financial skills, to track inventory, budget, and analyse profits, among others. Being bad with numbers can lead to miscalculations when it comes to plant growth.

7. Be a Good Salesman
To get where you want to be your business needs to make sales.

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15/02/2024
कृषकको लागि तथ्य पत्र स्रोत: केन्द्रिय कृषि प्रयोगशाला, हरिहरभवन ललितपुर
08/02/2024

कृषकको लागि तथ्य पत्र
स्रोत: केन्द्रिय कृषि प्रयोगशाला, हरिहरभवन ललितपुर

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