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McGills Mountains Mountain Mentor + Leader 🏔️ 3x 8000m
Together on your mountain journey

27/09/2026

For my Peruvian network ⬇️

🌂 📊 When will we adapt to the data? I’ve been to Manaslu 3x > 2015, 2018, 2024.I know many are disappointed to have thei...
22/09/2026

🌂 📊 When will we adapt to the data?

I’ve been to Manaslu 3x > 2015, 2018, 2024.

I know many are disappointed to have their current expeditions curtailed because of the weather.

But the 8000ers need both time and respect (something increasingly in short supply in the Insta-era).

In 2024 Kami and I were efficient and moved quickly, getting our summit in before the season ending weather event. The same weather that arrived last year, and yes, again this year.

Looking at the monsoon data (images) the trend is also clear. Just look at how long the monsoon season is becoming …

Expedition operators need to become more flexible and adaptive due to these shifts and clients might have to budget for time 🏔️

Om mani peme hung 🙏🌺🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️
31/07/2026

Om mani peme hung 🙏🌺

🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️🕯️

🏔️ Yanapaccha was followed swiftly by Pisco. I’m super proud of the team for persevering with the quick turnaround betwe...
30/06/2026

🏔️ Yanapaccha was followed swiftly by Pisco. I’m super proud of the team for persevering with the quick turnaround between climbs and congrats to Bob for his summit.

After a glorious week in this hills it was time to return to Huaraz and enjoy the sights and sounds: pizza meals and mountain movies. Then it was back to Lima by bus allowing everyone to continue their travels - some longer in Peru while others headed on home.

I love welcoming first timers to Peru and showing the ropes, allowing members to return more confident and sure of what trekking and climbing in the unique and majestic Cordillera Blanca entails. Till next time 🇵🇪🫶

Time to climb! And strategize. With the recent unfortunate avalanche on Tocllaraju, many people were spooked. Our origin...
24/06/2026

Time to climb! And strategize. With the recent unfortunate avalanche on Tocllaraju, many people were spooked. Our original plan had been Pisco then Chopicalqui. This then became Pisco and Inshinca. But I knew that this was a poor substitute to satisfy the “proper” climbing fix my members were after. Enter: Yanapaccha.

With climate impacts varying across the Cordillera Blanca, and while stalwarts such as Ishinca are deteriorating (not in safety, just in overall joy), others are rising to the challenge and providing a solid alternative. After chatting with my appointed IFMGA guide, we settled on Yanapaccha (5420m).

Back into Huascarán National Park, up the hairpin bends to the trailhead. The burro driver positioned there is not short of work, with the route to BC now bustling. We and Alpenglow were the largest parties, with a few others scattered around the pleasant lake-side base camp, some 2 - 2.5 hours from the drop-off point.

The next day was training day. And this is where Yanapaccha shines: a mere 30-minute scramble down to the toe of the glacier, and the team had an opportunity to test their ice tools and crampon skills.

The following day was the alpine start - departing at 2am for the climb. In normal years, the route is direct: up the glacier, across the icefall, and up a chute to the summit ridge. But this route had avalanched a few weeks previously. Our alternative route was much longer but probably more stunning: first, the glacier ice wall, then the long, circuitous snow hike through crevasses, then up onto the summit ridge, where nerves of steel were required on the traverse, before joining the old route at the top of the chutes.

I looked at the descent from the summit dome and knew my mind wasn’t in the game - still having issues from a prior large fall (note to self: need to work on this, yet it’s totally okay to acknowledge limits and prioritise safety on the day); so I waited for the rest of the rope team to bag their summit and return. We then all abseiled the two pitches back to the snowfields, retracing our steps to Base Camp.

I’m so stoked that all members summited Yanapaccha, our IFMGA guides were solid and safe, and it was a great day out on a very solid objective (PD+).

Football, fresh vegetables, gear rental, pizza, and the duffel shuffle … 3 nights back in Huaraz are done, and we are re...
20/06/2026

Football, fresh vegetables, gear rental, pizza, and the duffel shuffle … 3 nights back in Huaraz are done, and we are ready for the next phase of the Peruvian adventure: the climbs.

Yes, unfortunately, there was an avalanche that killed 2 climbers and injured one; we carefully assessed our options against the group's needs. Plan A became Plan B, which abruptly pivoted to Plan C.

I’m very appreciative of my in-country service provider's flexibility. Mucho Gracias 🙏.

Tomorrow, we head back into the hills for the next seven days. I’m super excited for the group and what lies ahead for them! Keep us in your thoughts.

😎 We are all safely back in Huaraz after the glorious Santa Cruz trek! Altitude - smiles - glacial lake swims - scent of...
17/06/2026

😎 We are all safely back in Huaraz after the glorious Santa Cruz trek!

Altitude - smiles - glacial lake swims - scent of the flowers we wish we could bottle - sunsets - spectacular stars - guacamole - mountain passes - Milky Way - stories - more smiles - our cups are full.

Now to regroup in Huaraz, say farewell to our trekker - check the conditions and forecasts - next up: rest then more hills

2 days of out and back day-hikes are complete - first was up to Wilochocha and then was Laguna Churup (definitely a favo...
14/06/2026

2 days of out and back day-hikes are complete - first was up to Wilochocha and then was Laguna Churup (definitely a favourite) 🤩

Next up - we head off in the morning for the Santa Cruz trek

Today was admin and acclimatisation day. Quite the mixed bag with meals at some staples: California Cafe and Cafe Andino...
12/06/2026

Today was admin and acclimatisation day.

Quite the mixed bag with meals at some staples: California Cafe and Cafe Andino. We met both Eric (Grupo Alpamayo) and then Shea (AWE Adventures). Gear was sussed out. Some enjoyed the Mirador viewpoint across Huaraz & I was even able to catch the first half of the South Africa World Cup match….⚽️

Tomorrow is our first proper walk.

Long day in a bus 🚌 however the scenery is always a pleasure and a chance to nap while the body adjusts to the increase ...
11/06/2026

Long day in a bus 🚌 however the scenery is always a pleasure and a chance to nap while the body adjusts to the increase in altitude.

Next is some trip admin, group briefing and a gentle introduction to Huaraz

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