04/03/2025
My Journey into American Whiskey: Road Trip
By Poppy Bruce Potash
Over the past two-plus years, I have had the good fortune to visit 24 distilleries and a glass bottle company. Truth be told, I have never been on a bad tour. How is that possible? Let me tell you. From my online social groups of whiskey enthusiasts to the people working throughout the industry, I meet the nicest people.
At each distillery, I encounter individuals who have been in the industry for less than a year, as well as Master Distillers with family legacies spanning eight generations. One of my recent tour guides, for example, was hired less than a year ago. She was terrific. Of course, all tour guides follow a script to ensure they cover essential facts about the distillery and the general process from grain to glass. But this young woman went beyond that. She took multiple tours, had the distillers explain each step in the distillation process and the equipment used, and even conducted her own research before coming back with more questions. For a newcomer, she was exceptionally knowledgeable.
At some distilleries, new hires are required to complete the Stave and Thief Society. And, like me, they become Certified Bourbon Stewards. Then, of course, there are the seasoned pros—individuals who have pursued formal education and spent decades mastering their craft. These professionals typically do not give tours, but because I work in the industry, I occasionally get to peek behind the curtain. On my most recent road trip, I had the privilege of meeting two individuals who will likely become future Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame inductees: Justin Willett, Vice President of Operations at Bardstown Bourbon Company, and John Kempe, Master Distiller at Lux Row Distillers. These gentlemen delivered a masterclass in Kentucky Bourbon and Whiskey.
Over the next few weeks, I will be posting articles and photos from my seven recent distillery visits. Our first stop: Michter's Fort Nelson Distillery.
Whiskey Row: A Historic Treasure
Whiskey Row is located along East and West Main Streets in Louisville, Kentucky. This 12-block stretch of cast-iron storefronts, built between 1852 and 1905, was once home to over 50 plus bourbon and whiskey industry distilleries, wholesalers, and distributors. By 2011, however, the district was on the verge of demolition. Thanks to the dedication of the city, local developers, preservationists, and the unwavering determination of Harry Shapira of Heaven Hill Distillery, Whiskey Row was not only saved but revitalized. Today, it thrives as the beating heart of whiskey culture in Louisville—a vibrant hub for history, hospitality, and some of the finest spirits in the world.
Every distillery along Whiskey Row was constructed within the footprint of the existing buildings while preserving their beautiful architecture. This naturally limits onsite production. Additionally, downtown Louisville is a bustling business district, so barrel aging for these distilleries occurs outside the city limits. What visitors experience are modern facilities designed for tourism—all within walking distance. Pro tip: wear comfortable shoes!
Michter’s Fort Nelson Distillery
Located at 801 West Main Street, Michter’s Fort Nelson Distillery sits in the heart of downtown Louisville, across from the Louisville Slugger Museum & Bat Factory and down the block from the Frazier History Museum. The Frazier Museum serves as the official starting point of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail®.
West Main Street is part of Louisville’s Historic District and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. As a former Manhattan resident and a fan of historical fiction author Caleb Carr, I appreciate walking through neighborhoods where history still breathes through the architecture. Louisville offers that same sense of time travel. As we approached Michter’s, I was struck by its beautiful four-story, red-brick building with Romanesque arched windows framed by stone hoods. It looked like something straight out of a historical novel.
The site itself has a rich past. Originally, it was the location of Fort Nelson, a one-acre fortification completed in 1781. The current building was constructed around 1890 and has housed a variety of businesses over the years, including cigar manufacturers, coffee roasters, photo manufacturers, and even an airplane works company. After years of vacancy, it was finally restored by Michter’s President, Joe Magliocco, as part of the Whiskey Row revitalization effort. The architectural firm of Joseph & Joseph transformed it into a fully functional distillery, gift shop, and tasting room.
Restoring a 19th-century cast-iron storefront was no easy feat. The building had been abandoned for years and required significant structural reinforcement, including steel beams to ensure stability. The result? A stunning blend of historic charm and state-of-the-art distilling technology. Like many distilleries along Whiskey Row, it seamlessly marries tradition with modern innovation.
Inside the Michter’s Tour
Distillery tours serve two key purposes: brand promotion and public education. The beauty of the experience is that no two distilleries do it the same way—so take as many tours as possible! Plus, there’s always great whiskey to sample.
Michter’s tour focuses on six production techniques they believe define their signature whiskey style. Our guide, Rory, expertly walked us through each step, getting us ready for the best part—the tasting room.
Like every Louisville-based distillery, Michter’s takes great pride in its limestone-filtered water. The Ohio River has blessed the region with a natural water source rich in minerals ideal for whiskey production. Yes, the water does taste great and having stayed in Louisville, I drank the water, had ice cubes made from the water, brushed my teeth using the water and bathed in the water, I like to be fresh for the next day’s tours. I completely understand great water! But with so many distilleries consuming millions of gallons daily, how has the Ohio River not run dry? Simple—major distilleries invest heavily in advanced water recycling programs, returning water to its original source to ensure sustainable production. Thank you, distillers!
Rory then led us through the distillery, highlighting its cage mill for precise grain milling, cooking and fermentation techniques, and Michter’s double distillation process. Since our tour group included industry professionals—a distillery owner, a Master Distiller, a Master Electrician, a distillery sales manager, an alcohol spirits wholesaler, and me—Rory dove deep into details. We especially appreciated her insights on cooperage (barrel making).
Michter’s has their cooperage barrels undergo 18 to 60 months of air drying before use. Open-air seasoning reduces harsh tannins, resulting in a smoother whiskey. After seasoning, barrels are toasted before charring, enhancing caramelization for deeper flavors.
By law, American Whiskey and Bourbon must be barreled at no more than 125 proof (62.5% ABV). Michter’s, however, barrels at 103 proof (51.5% ABV). Every Master Distiller does it a little different. At Michter’s they believe the lower proof barrel entry results in a smoother flavor and richer mouthfeel.
Kentucky’s climate plays a crucial role in aging. The state experiences hot summers and cool winters, causing whiskey to expand and contract within the wood, drawing out more flavor. Michter’s amplifies this process using heat cycling, regulating warehouse temperatures to increase aging cycles and intensify complexity.
Michter’s whiskeys are either single barrel or batched in small equipment designed to hold no more than 20 barrels, ensuring rigorous quality control.
Finally, it was time to taste! I am going to leave it there. My philosophy: everyone experiences whiskey differently. If you want the Michter’s experience, visit the distillery or pick up a few bottles and create your own tasting flight at home.
Cheers!
