07/28/2026
A return to Michoacan was long past due.
First, I landed in Morelia at night. I took public transportation safely all the way to downtown where the streets were still busy and bustling at 10p—however to my surprise there were far more coffee shops than bars lining the city square, and they were all packed. I felt totally safe wandering around el centro picking up the essentials (drinking water & hair conditioner) until finding my Airbnb.
The next day I stopped in Patzcuaro on my way to Uruapan. The town square was bright with tourists everywhere. I like dropping into touristy towns because they always have that one fancy artesania shop that has a great mix of all the different artesania styles of the region—Patzcuaro didn’t disappoint. I didn’t get a chance to hang out for long as I was falling more and more sick, making my job nearly impossible. The best course for me was to get as close to a jumping point to get to Ocumicho, so I made my way to Uruapan.
Uruapan was a big surprise for me. I didn’t expect it to be as clean, friendly, or modern as it was. Upon arrival I was guided to a doctor and received medical treatment immediately. From there I went to go wander the city square and talk to strangers. The Uruapeños are kind and warm, and they were all willing to explain the portraits of their former mayor Carlos Manzo—a young politician who ran as an independent and won by a landslide. For a bit over a year, the young politician was a progressive voice whose populist, anti-narc*****its stances made him a target of those very groups; they eventually sent a teenager to do their violent bidding during a public, candlelit Día de Mu***os celebration in Uruapan.
Above all I was touched by how even in extreme grief of loss and disappointment in “the system” the message of love for one another and hope for a better, more peaceful home endured.
Also got humbled by heights on the gondola, but it’s the fastest way to see the whole city ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Michoacan pt II is up next.
Con amor,
M
