08/06/2026
In the past I’ve taught about flatness when it comes to subfloors and its importance. But another area of flatness happens to involve flatness of flooring material. In this case I’ll limit my comments to flatness in engineered wood floor boards and its installation in glue down applications.
According to the ANSI/HPVA EF national voluntary standards for engineered wood floors, boards that are less than 3/4” in thickness have a flatness tolerance of 1.5% of the length of the individual board. Where the thickness is 3/4” and thicker the tolerance is reduced to 0.75% of the length. So a board length of 48” with a plank measuring 1/2” thick, the allowable amount of bow would be .72” or close to 3/4”. I know, I know that’s quite a bit but that’s also over 48”. If we reduce the length to 24” the calculation is .36” or about 3/8” as opposed to 3/4”. But even with a reduction to half as much allowed, it is more challenging to install a board with a 3/8” bow with only a 24” span, versus correcting a 3/4” bow over 48”. It even becomes more challenging when we change the installation method from nail down to glue down or floating.
While the standards tend to be universal regardless of the species, moisture content, product width, even the standards don’t address bow versus end lift which can be more challenging to install. There is even no difference with respect to thickness 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2”, all fall under the same standard, yet 1/2” would be more challenging than a 1/4” product. But do we understand bow? I’m not talking bow and skew as sometimes seen in carpet but bow that occurs where you place a board face up on a flat surface and it lifts off the surface in the center of the board. The bottom of the board is not touching the surface, generally at the center but the ends of the board are touching the surface. If neither touched, the center and ends lifted off the surface at the same time it would be a neat Houdini trick. And so then what is end lift.
As the term suggests it’s the opposite of bow where the center is touching the surface but the ends are lifted away from the surface. So with a flatness standard which seeks a single number (ie 3/4” in 6’) how do we then measure for end lift and compare it to the HPVA standard? Turn it over. Measure the distance between lamella face and flat surface and compare it to the standard.
If you’re an installer, you’ve probably seen it. You open a carton of wood and what do you see? Boards. Often flat looking boards because if they were all bowed how would they get the carton sealed? So it’s not that every board coming out of the carton is bowed or at least not yet! So you take boards out of the carton and now you see it. Some boards appear flat with no issues and then there are boards that all of a sudden decide to lift. How did that happen? Well when you saw the material in the carton what did you see? Layers of flooring and each layer interconnected at the tongue and groove. It would then stand to reason that when disconnected and looking at Individual boards there is nothing guiding the board. But once placed into the rack of the floor it stands to reason that surrounding boards that are flat would pull down that which is bowed. The weight of the floor is what helps to pull down the floor. But all things being equal it does depend on the circumstances.
In a glue down installation it’s a little more challenging as with a nail down floor a nail, a cleat or a staple help to flatten to board. With a gluedown you are dependent on the glue not only transferring adhesive from the subfloor to the back of the wood but maintaining that bond. If a bowed board is installed in a gluedown installation but lifts out of the adhesive before the glue has the ability to cure or develop enough strength to hold it, what you wind up with is a lot of hollow areas under the floor. There is glue on the subfloor and back of the wood, but it didn’t maintain its position. So this is where tolerances come into play because if it’s in tolerance it should be installable. Right? Should be. An experienced installer recognizes the challenge and will often place weights on the floor to hold down that which is bowed. Or often seen he will use his rubber mallet to essentially beat the floor down and into the adhesive. If working on top of the floor it’s important to use a knelling board so as not to displace the adhesive underneath which can lead to a lack of glue and hollow spots. Also scooting a board over wet adhesive isn’t a good idea as the adhesive could develop memory and cause gaps in a floor. Keep in mind glue can dry unequally out on a jobsite and so areas exposed to direct sun and air vents will dry faster than unexposed areas when dealing with acrylic adhesives. Same can be said for urethane which is dependent on moisture from subfloors and air to dry. This again can have an impact on bowed boards installed in a floor during its installation. In any event the installers should follow the manufacturer installation instructions which may vary between manufacturers. Some want the floor to be rolled others do not specify. Rolling a wood floor with a 75 or 100 pound 3 section roller will aid in gaining transfer to the back of the wood and thus obtain bond. If the subfloor will accept the adhesive application. A burnished concrete slab may be challenging to bond to if it is not first profiled to make it more porous especially with urethane adhesives.
Have a question, post it here. Evan