07/13/2026
https://oxfordamerican.org/oa-now/deeply-rooted
I first learned about family apples while researching my book, Wild, Tamed, Lost, Revived: The Surprising Story of Apples in the South, published by the University of North Carolina Press in 2023. Lee Calhoun wrote about apples that are handed down within families or distributed within a small community, ones that never entered the nursery trade. Family apples have deep cultural connections—there are reasons people grafted and passed along a particular apple. Perhaps the apple held a memory of a loved family member, like Granny Neighbors named for Alabama nursery owner Joyce Neighbors. Or, like the Mary Reid apple, the fruit ripened during to***co harvest and provided sustenance for the community doing the hard work of bringing in a to***co crop in late summer and early fall.
Two apples from Bath County, Virginia, kept calling to me: Aunt Cora's Yard Apple and Aunt Cora's Field Apple carry the name and legacy of Cora Gilmore who was born enslaved in that Allegheny mountain community, experienced Emancipation, purchased land from her enslavers, and worked as a midwife to Black and white families into the twentieth century. This recent story in the Oxford American excavates a bit of southern history through the story of Gilmore's apples and the landscape that spawned them.
Every time I dip into any apple's past I learn—or relearn—"it's complicated." The South is complicated. Agriculture is nuanced; people lead complex, multi-facted lives. Learning is my highest value and I'm still hard at work in the orchard and the archives.
A couple of years ago Will Hodges from Troddenvale Cider and I gathered scions from an old tree on Gilmore's home place. I grafted a few trees and now grow what might be one of Gilmore's namesake apples. DNA testing revealed one parent is the Horse apple, one of the most widely grown apple varieties in the South. Makes sense. Lee Calhoun said, "You don't often see the Horse apple in a southern nursery catalog because everybody in the South already had a Horse apple in their back yard." Virginia Cider
Virginia cider maker Diane Flynt chronicles the history of two family apple varieties named for Bath County midwife Cora Gilmore.