05/17/2026
Two days in Istanbul, last summer.
I came here from Russia, where I had just said goodbye to my grandfather. He was almost 88 โ a whole century folded into one human being, and then gone. I landed in this city carrying the kind of silence in my chest you canโt speak around.
And Istanbul did the thing only Istanbul can do. It didnโt try to comfort me. It just opened. Wider than my grief.
The only city on earth that straddles two continents โ Asia on one shore, Europe on the other, the Bosphorus running between them like a vein the planet keeps pulsing through. For nearly 1,600 years it was the capital of empires: Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman. Constantine renamed it after himself in 330 AD. Suleiman the Magnificent ran half the known world from here. Empires die. Cities like this remember them anyway.
๐๏ธ Home base: โ a boutique hotel in the heart of Sultanahmet, five minutes from the Blue Mosque, the Cistern, Hagia Sophia. Warm staff, breakfast on a rooftop terrace over old Constantinople. The kind of place that makes you feel held.
If you know me, you know the first two things I seek out in a new city are a teahouse and a spa โ and Istanbul is the patron saint of both. Tea on every corner. Wellness and hospitality woven into the bones of the place.
I got lost on purpose. No map, no plan โ narrow streets curling into narrower ones, cats in doorways, the call to prayer rolling over the rooftops. Drank tea with strangers, and discovered half the tiny storefronts have a much bigger back room with โBalenciaga,โ โGucci,โ and every designer you can name. I almost walked out with one. Thatโs the real Istanbul โ the one in the cracks between the monuments.
๐ What I saw
๐ Blue Mosque
๐ Basilica Cistern
๐ Grand Bazaar
๐ Sรผleymaniye Mosque
๐ Egyptian Bazaar
๐ Kฤฑlฤฑรง Ali Paลa Hamam
๐ Galata Bridge
๐ Galata Tower & neighborhood
๐ Bosphorus night cruise
I came here to escape grief. I left having met it differently. Istanbul reminded me that things end โ empires, eras, the people you love โ but the bridge between continents keeps standing. And so do we.
Dedushka, this one was for you. ๐คโ๏ธ