07/09/2021
I'm often asked how to determine the age of American Indian beadwork from the Great Plains. One clue we look for is the color shade of red and yellow beads. This photo is a close up from an 1880’s to***co bag and serves as a good example of these early bead colors (as long as your computer monitor is accurate).
Reds are the first thing I check. Red glass trade beads from the 19th century are a deep red shade similar to claret, due to its purple undertone. They are often white-hearts, meaning the interior center of the bead is white. Red beads of the early 20th century tend to be a brighter, lighter shade of red with a slight orange tint. They’re sometimes referred to as a tomato red. They are a stark difference to the earlier red shade of the 19th century.
Yellow beads from the 19th century, as in the photo, are often this pale shade of yellow and referred to as greasy yellow. However, there were also yellow beads from the late 19th century that were a brighter shade, similar to those from the early 20th century. In that case you have to look at other factors as well.
Of course, 19th century beads didn’t just disappear at the turn of the century. It’s certainly possible to have an item made in the early 1900’s with recycled beads from the 1870’s on it, so other factors have to be considered. On the other hand, if a piece has bright tomato red beads, you can be assured it’s a 20th century piece.