https://www.facebook.com/197751083411421/

Amazing Rabbit Center, mabelreign, Mapumulo (2026)

14/10/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐁𝐈𝐎𝐋𝐎𝐆𝐈𝐂𝐀𝐋 𝐋𝐈𝐌𝐈𝐓 (𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐀𝐑𝐓 𝐎𝐅 𝐅𝐎𝐒𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐍𝐆)

You perfected your genetics, timed the mating perfectly, and just delivered an incredible litter of 14 healthy babies. It feels like a massive commercial victory. But if you simply leave all 14 babies in that single nest box, you are going to face a devastating reality within 48 hours.

A female rabbit is bound by strict biological math. She typically only has 8 to 10 functioning teats. Unlike a dog or a pig that will lay down for hours and let their young nurse in shifts, a mother rabbit’s wild instincts force her to only enter the nest box once or twice a day. She stands directly over the babies, nurses them for an explosive, frantic 3 to 5 minutes, and immediately jumps out.

During that rapid 5-minute feeding frenzy, the strongest 8 babies will latch onto the teats and drink until their bellies are round and tight. The remaining 6 babies will get absolutely nothing. Because the mother will not return until the next day, those 6 hungry babies will rapidly dehydrate, shrivel, and die on the floor of the nest box.

To save these extra babies and maximize your farm's profit, you must master the commercial technique of "fostering." Female rabbits cannot count, and they recognize their babies strictly by scent. If you have another mother in the shed who gave birth to a small litter of 4 on the exact same day, you can balance the scales. Take the mother out of her cage, carefully rub the extra babies in the fur and nesting material of the small litter to mask their scent, and tuck them into the new box. When the foster mother returns to feed, she will smell her own nest, assume all the babies are hers, and happily raise your extra fryers to harvest weight!

Do you know how to safely foster extra babies to balance your litters, or do you just hope the mother can magically feed 14 babies with only 8 teats?

14/10/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐁𝐈𝐎𝐋𝐎𝐆𝐈𝐂𝐀𝐋 𝐋𝐈𝐌𝐈𝐓 (𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐀𝐑𝐓 𝐎𝐅 𝐅𝐎𝐒𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐍𝐆)

You perfected your genetics, timed the mating perfectly, and just delivered an incredible litter of 14 healthy babies. It feels like a massive commercial victory. But if you simply leave all 14 babies in that single nest box, you are going to face a devastating reality within 48 hours.

A female rabbit is bound by strict biological math. She typically only has 8 to 10 functioning teats. Unlike a dog or a pig that will lay down for hours and let their young nurse in shifts, a mother rabbit’s wild instincts force her to only enter the nest box once or twice a day. She stands directly over the babies, nurses them for an explosive, frantic 3 to 5 minutes, and immediately jumps out.

During that rapid 5-minute feeding frenzy, the strongest 8 babies will latch onto the teats and drink until their bellies are round and tight. The remaining 6 babies will get absolutely nothing. Because the mother will not return until the next day, those 6 hungry babies will rapidly dehydrate, shrivel, and die on the floor of the nest box.

To save these extra babies and maximize your farm's profit, you must master the commercial technique of "fostering." Female rabbits cannot count, and they recognize their babies strictly by scent. If you have another mother in the shed who gave birth to a small litter of 4 on the exact same day, you can balance the scales. Take the mother out of her cage, carefully rub the extra babies in the fur and nesting material of the small litter to mask their scent, and tuck them into the new box. When the foster mother returns to feed, she will smell her own nest, assume all the babies are hers, and happily raise your extra fryers to harvest weight!

Do you know how to safely foster extra babies to balance your litters, or do you just hope the mother can magically feed 14 babies with only 8 teats?

14/10/2026

Shout out to my newest followers! Excited to have you onboard! Purushothaman Puru Ramachandran, Dennis Mureithi, Eddie Tapi Kays, Derick Rugendabanga, Tshabaz Chiimba, Cecilia Perez, Tichafa Steve WekwaMuromba, Allan Da Silva, Thulani Ozayo Mabandla, Prince Olayemi Tunde Aladi, Cainos Mutsengi, Douglas Mutembwa, Drizzle Muscat, Melusi Ndebele, Simbarashe Gochero, Benny Jongwe, Meshack Ramutloa, Hilary Madyira, Wilberto Batista, JB Sales, Archie Mpudzi, Ali Hydar Sial, Atinga Stephen, Ilyas Mirza, Petros William Theu, Petit Placide Bodjrenou, Chikh Tadartiw, Abdulhakeem Amosa, Samson Opatoyinbo, Auwal Sulaiman, Mohamed Sheik, Gwinyai Rutsito, Chiko L Lony, Musa Ibrahim, Dennis Otoo, Zappe Zappe, Kabelo Tshepo, Zambri Zainudin, Steward Shereni, Mireille Nzunda, Adnan Ahmad, Kuya Jie, Frodo Don, Jabulane Mashwai, Cassandra Bims, Felieboy KE, Bruce Masiyakurima, Chrisy Wendy, Arthur Nyikadzino, Tony Scooteris

13/10/2026

𝐇𝐄𝐀𝐓 𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐎𝐊𝐄.

Keeping your rabbitry under a low, uninsulated corrugated zinc roof in a tropical climate is a ticking time bomb for heat stroke. Because rabbits lack sweat glands and can only regulate their body temperature by radiating heat through the blood vessels in their large ears, they struggle heavily when ambient temperatures climb above 30°C. When exposed to intense, trapped overhead heat, their heart rate spikes, their breathing becomes rapid and shallow, and their bodies quickly succumb to shock, leading to sudden, silent mortality in your best breeders.

You can easily prevent this devastating heat stress without spending a fortune on expensive cooling systems. Simple, practical solutions like painting the top of your zinc roof white to reflect sunlight, installing basic bamboo ceilings, or placing frozen plastic water bottles inside the cages during peak hours work wonders. These minor adjustments provide an instant cool sanctuary for your heavyweights, ensuring they stay active, stress-free, and feeding consistently through the hottest times of the day.

How do you keep your rabbitry cool during the hottest afternoons of the dry season?

13/10/2026

𝐇𝐄𝐀𝐓 𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐎𝐊𝐄.

Keeping your rabbitry under a low, uninsulated corrugated zinc roof in a tropical climate is a ticking time bomb for heat stroke. Because rabbits lack sweat glands and can only regulate their body temperature by radiating heat through the blood vessels in their large ears, they struggle heavily when ambient temperatures climb above 30°C. When exposed to intense, trapped overhead heat, their heart rate spikes, their breathing becomes rapid and shallow, and their bodies quickly succumb to shock, leading to sudden, silent mortality in your best breeders.

You can easily prevent this devastating heat stress without spending a fortune on expensive cooling systems. Simple, practical solutions like painting the top of your zinc roof white to reflect sunlight, installing basic bamboo ceilings, or placing frozen plastic water bottles inside the cages during peak hours work wonders. These minor adjustments provide an instant cool sanctuary for your heavyweights, ensuring they stay active, stress-free, and feeding consistently through the hottest times of the day.

How do you keep your rabbitry cool during the hottest afternoons of the dry season?

12/10/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐈𝐍𝐕𝐈𝐒𝐈𝐁𝐋𝐄 𝐄𝐍𝐄𝐌𝐘 (𝐅𝐈𝐆𝐇𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐇𝐄𝐀𝐓 𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐄𝐒𝐒)

KWAKUPISA MAZUWANO

As you scale up your operation and bring in heavy commercial genetics , you introduce a new biological vulnerability. These massive rabbits are incredibly efficient at producing meat, but they are wearing a permanent, dense fur coat. Most importantly, rabbits physically cannot sweat.

When the dry season hits hard and the afternoon sun beats down on your shed roof, the temperature inside can spike rapidly. A beginner often assumes that as long as the rabbits have water, they will be fine. But heat stress is an invisible enemy that destroys farm profits. When a rabbit gets too hot, it immediately stops eating. A growing fryer that isn't eating is losing you money. Even worse, if a working buck gets severely overheated, the high temperature will literally kill his s***m, leaving him completely sterile for up to two months.

You cannot fight the climate, but you must manage the micro-environment of your shed. Beyond ensuring your roof has a wide overhang to cast deep shadows and utilizing an open-sided shed design for maximum wind flow, you need a direct cooling strategy for the absolute hottest afternoons.

The cheapest and most effective commercial trick is the "cooling tile." Go to a local hardware store and buy a box of smooth, cheap ceramic floor tiles. Place one large tile directly on the wire floor of every breeding cage. Ceramic naturally stays significantly cooler than the surrounding air. When the afternoon heat peaks, your heavy breeders will instinctively stretch out completely flat across the smooth tile, allowing the cool ceramic to draw the dangerous heat safely out of their deep chest and belly, keeping them eating, breeding, and thriving!

Do you have a strict plan to keep your heavy breeders cool on boiling hot afternoons, or do they just have to suffer through the heat?

12/10/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐈𝐍𝐕𝐈𝐒𝐈𝐁𝐋𝐄 𝐄𝐍𝐄𝐌𝐘 (𝐅𝐈𝐆𝐇𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐇𝐄𝐀𝐓 𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐄𝐒𝐒)

KWAKUPISA MAZUWANO

As you scale up your operation and bring in heavy commercial genetics , you introduce a new biological vulnerability. These massive rabbits are incredibly efficient at producing meat, but they are wearing a permanent, dense fur coat. Most importantly, rabbits physically cannot sweat.

When the dry season hits hard and the afternoon sun beats down on your shed roof, the temperature inside can spike rapidly. A beginner often assumes that as long as the rabbits have water, they will be fine. But heat stress is an invisible enemy that destroys farm profits. When a rabbit gets too hot, it immediately stops eating. A growing fryer that isn't eating is losing you money. Even worse, if a working buck gets severely overheated, the high temperature will literally kill his s***m, leaving him completely sterile for up to two months.

You cannot fight the climate, but you must manage the micro-environment of your shed. Beyond ensuring your roof has a wide overhang to cast deep shadows and utilizing an open-sided shed design for maximum wind flow, you need a direct cooling strategy for the absolute hottest afternoons.

The cheapest and most effective commercial trick is the "cooling tile." Go to a local hardware store and buy a box of smooth, cheap ceramic floor tiles. Place one large tile directly on the wire floor of every breeding cage. Ceramic naturally stays significantly cooler than the surrounding air. When the afternoon heat peaks, your heavy breeders will instinctively stretch out completely flat across the smooth tile, allowing the cool ceramic to draw the dangerous heat safely out of their deep chest and belly, keeping them eating, breeding, and thriving!

Do you have a strict plan to keep your heavy breeders cool on boiling hot afternoons, or do they just have to suffer through the heat?

11/10/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐒𝐄𝐂𝐑𝐄𝐓 𝐓𝐎 𝐇𝐄𝐀𝐕𝐘 𝐌𝐈𝐋𝐊

When a female rabbit gives birth to a large litter of fast-growing babies, her body turns into a heavy milk factory. To produce all that rich milk, she needs to drink a massive amount of water every single day. A nursing mother will easily drink more water than a dog twice her size!

Beginners often give their rabbits water in heavy clay or plastic bowls sitting on the floor of the cage. This creates two immediate disasters. First, rabbits love to dig and hop. Within an hour, they will kick dirt, fur, and manure directly into the bowl, turning their drinking water into a toxic, brown bacterial soup. Second, if the mother gets restless and accidentally flips the bowl over, her cage gets soaking wet and she is left with nothing to drink.

If a nursing mother is left without clean water for even a few hours on a hot afternoon, her milk supply will completely dry up. Without milk, her entire litter of babies will begin to starve before you even notice there is a problem.

To guarantee your babies grow fast and your farm stays profitable, you must move away from open bowls. A serious commercial setup uses a simple, cheap automatic ni**le drinking system. A covered bucket sits outside the cage, feeding fresh, cool water through a small hose directly to a stainless steel ni**le in every cage. The rabbits just lick the metal pin when they are thirsty. The water can never be spilled, it never gets contaminated with manure, and the mother has 24-hour access to the endless, perfectly clean water she needs to feed her young!

Are you still scrubbing out dirty water bowls every single morning, or have you upgraded your hutch to an automatic ni**le drinking system yet?

08/10/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐏𝐀𝐑𝐀𝐒𝐈𝐓𝐄 𝐓𝐇𝐀𝐓 𝐄𝐀𝐓𝐒 𝐅𝐑𝐎𝐌 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐈𝐍𝐒𝐈𝐃𝐄

Rabbits have massive, highly sensitive ears to help them regulate heat, but those large open canals are also a prime target for a microscopic enemy: the ear mite.

Beginners will often see a rabbit aggressively scratching at its ears or violently shaking its head from side to side and just assume the animal has a normal itch. But if you look deep inside the ear canal and see a thick, brown, flaky buildup that looks like dark dirt or thick earwax, your rabbit is under active attack.

These microscopic parasites live deep inside the canal, constantly biting the delicate skin. As the rabbit's immune system fights back, plasma leaks from the bites, hardening into that thick brown crust. The physiological stress of thousands of mites constantly biting is immense. A heavy commercial breeder in this much pain will completely stop eating and rapidly lose its valuable muscle mass. If left untreated, the mites can cause severe secondary bacterial infections that pe*****te the inner ear, resulting in a fatal, permanent head-tilt.

The solution requires strict, routine observation and a very gentle treatment. During your monthly physical checks, you must look deep into every single ear. If you spot that brown crust, never try to peel or scrape it out with your fingers. The skin underneath is raw and damaged, and peeling the scab will cause terrible bleeding and agony.
Instead, simply drop a few drops of mineral oil, sweet oil, or a commercial anti-parasitic treatment (like Ivermectin) directly into the ear canal, and gently massage the base of the ear. The treatment safely smothers and kills the mites. Within a week, the rabbit's body will naturally heal the skin and painlessly push the dead, dry crust out on its own.

Do you physically check deep inside your rabbits' ears every single month, or do you wait until they are shaking their heads in pain before you realize there is a problem?

Chitungwiza Rabbit

08/10/2026

Shout out to my newest followers! Excited to have you onboard! Citizen Agbesi, Dennis Velile Dhlula, Henry Abuh, Temilola Toyin, Ruel Naquila Noro, Sungani Mcdonald Mweruza, Yemi Adetayo, Tonderayi Musegedi, Blessing Namatira, Chonco Nkosinathi, Qaphelani Tshuma, Doubt Nyevera Muchongwe, Simba Junior Katiyo, Luckson Mabuka, Ilaya Theophilus, Samson Griffin Nsakalimba, Tichaona Chibwana, Franklin Quiban, Blessed Dinhidza, Hopewell Chivaraidze, Kailas Shirsale, Menard Mandivavarira, Hssaini Abubakar, Muhammad Farhan Dogar, Daniel Pfachi, Christian Bidiedie, Ian Magoche, Juma Lesa H Nondo, Douglas Ndlovu, Nicholas Marekwa, Lucky Chidamba, Muindi Muia, Nemelito Dulay Baldemor, Chiff T Chifamba, Reggis Chiremba, Talih Haidar, Clever Gusto, Tonderai Gomana, Desire Sela, Umuhire Samuel, Narcisse Badakou, Abdlkarim Zabbar, Amin Suky, Tariro Murindagomo, Rasheed Ahmed, Deon Pretorius, John Paul Mendoza, Sabih Ahmad, Usman Umar Yaro, Jufriwal

Amazing Rabbit Center

14/10/2026

14/10/2026

14/10/2026

13/10/2026

13/10/2026

12/10/2026

12/10/2026

11/10/2026

08/10/2026

08/10/2026

Address

Telephone

Website

Alerts

Contact The Business

Shortcuts

Share

Listing takedown request