12/04/2026
FLOWERGIRL Albariño: In 2018, at her wits end with a tiny parcel (0.3 ha/0.74 acres) of Cabernet vines which simply wouldn’t ripen, Povall top-grafted the vines with Albariño – making her one of just three people growing the variety in South Africa right now. She and her team hand-pick the grapes and the juice undergoes spontaneous fermentation in concrete egg and stainless-steel tank. It spends about three months on its lees without going through malo. I’ve tasted the 2023, 2024 and 2025. They’re all fantastic – Galicia with a South African accent, added ripeness, extra brightness.
Of the 2025 I wrote, ‘Apricot jam and lemon marmalade. Absolutely packed to the rafters with fruit. A happy, glorious wine. A little orchestra and line dance in a glass. Circles and circles. Long, luscious lime. So happy in its own skin.’ It’s just 13%, and honestly, if like many of us in the northern hemisphere you’re longing for the end of winter, for the taste of the promise of sunshine, this wine will go so well with what’s in season right now: try seared or smoked mackerel with a salad of blood orange and celeriac; or a scallop ceviche with blood orange and little crispy fried slices of Jerusalem artichoke sprinkled on top for a spring-is-on-its-way starter. Riverford, the organic veg box company, has a brilliant recipe for a ‘Vitamin C grain bowl’, which you could whip up in 20 minutes, and I can see a glass of Flower Girl Albariño being just the sidekick to prevent wholegrain virtue slipping into wholescale prohibition.
The 2025 vintage is available in Germany, Sweden, the US (FL, NY, WI), where it is imported by Pascal Schildt Selections, and the UK, where it is imported by Dreyfus Ashby and can be found stocked by a number of independent wine merchants. It’s worth noting that The Wine Society is still stocking the 2024, which is in no way going to be past its drink-by date, at a bargain £18. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy an older vintage.